All kinds of white fish fillets can be cooked in this way, but I am particularly fond of skate wings with these flavors. The flesh is fine and delicate and easily parts from the layer of soft cartilaginous ribs. Small skate wings can be sautéed but the thicker, more prized wings of the larger fish must be poached (see Variations).

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　4 small skate wings, skinned (about 2 pounds)

　　Salt

　　Juice of 1 lemon

　　Peel of 1 preserved lemon, chopped (see page 7)

　　8 to 12 large green olives, pitted and chopped

　　2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or coriander

　　To serve: 1 lemon, cut into quarters

　　

Step 1

Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet and put in the skate wings. Sprinkle lightly with salt and cook over a low heat for 4 minutes, then turn over, add the lemon juice, and cook for another 4 minutes, or until the flesh begins to come away from the long soft bones. The time depends on the thickness of the wings.

　　

Step 2

Add the preserved lemon peel, green olives, and chopped parsley or coriander and let them heat through in the oil and juices. Serve with the lemon wedges.

　　

variations

Step 3

For a spicy version using small wings, stir into the oil, just before you put in the fish, 2 crushed garlic cloves, a pinch of ground ginger, a pinch of ground cumin, and a pinch of ground chili pepper.

　　

Step 4

Instead of olives, you can add 1 to 2 tablespoons capers.

　　

Step 5

If using larger wings, buy 4 thick middle strips weighing about 1/2 pound each (they are sold skinned) rather than side wedge pieces. Poach them in salted water, just below simmering point, for 15 to 20 minutes, then drain thoroughly. Heat the oil and lemon juice with the preserved lemon peel, olives, and herbs and pour over the fish.

　　Arabesque