I once thought that poached skate with brown butter was the highest and best use of this relative of shark, but then I began to sauté the fish, which is even better. Which you prefer depends, to some extent, on your tolerance for butter. I offer the sautéed version first and the more classic poached fish as a variation. For either, it’s easiest if you buy skate that has been “filleted,” that is, removed from its central cartilage (if it isn’t, just cook it a little longer; it will practically come off the “bone” by itself). But never, ever buy skate that has not been skinned; you simply will not get it off unless you resort to a pair of pliers—and even then it won’t be easy. This is a rich dish; serve it with salad and a light vegetable, no more, and you’ll be satisfied.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　Flour for dredging

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　Extra virgin olive or other oil (or clarified butter, page 241) for frying

　　1 1/2 to 2 pounds skate, skinned

　　4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

　　2 tablespoons drained capers, lightly crushed

　　1/4 cup wine vinegar, preferably white

　　Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put a large skillet over medium-high heat. While it is heating, season the flour with salt and pepper and put it on a plate. Add the oil or clarified butter to the skillet—it should coat the bottom well—and turn the heat to high. When the oil is hot, dredge the skate lightly in the flour and add it to the pan. Cook until the skate is nicely browned on the first side, 3 to 5 minutes, then turn. Cook on the second side for 2 to 4 minutes—lower the heat a bit if the coating begins to scorch—until it is firm to the touch.

　　

Step 2

Just before serving, put the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter foam subsides and the butter turns nut-brown, then cook for another 15 seconds or so. Add the capers and swirl them around, then pour the butter over the fish. Immediately add the vinegar to the pan that the butter was in, swirl it around, and pour it over the fish. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

　　

Poached Skate with Brown Butter

Step 3

Put the skate in a deep, wide saucepan or skillet and add enough Fish Stock (page 161)—or water with about 10 percent vinegar added—to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim off any foam, and turn the heat to medium-low. Cook the skate until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the skate, drain it, and place it on a hot platter. Proceed to step 2 and finish as directed.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.