Every year, migrating quails fly over the Mediterranean to Alexandria. Hundreds of the small birds fall, exhausted, on the dunes of the beaches of Agami, to be caught in large nets and collected in baskets. They are plucked and cleaned and marinated in a rich sauce, then grilled on the beaches over numerous little fires. Now quail farms are an important part of the local economy. Broiled quail are also a specialty of Lebanese restaurants, where they are served as mezze. The flavorings here are those of Alexandria.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　6 quails

　　5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　Salt

　　1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

　　1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

　　1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

　　1 onion, blended to a cream in a food processor

　　Pinch of cayenne pepper or ground chili pepper

　　2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish

　　2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve with

　　

Step 1

Wash the quails. You may need to singe some stray feathers. Using kitchen shears or a serrated knife, cut the birds open along the breastbone, then pull them out and flatten them as much as you can so that they cook evenly.

　　

Step 2

Mix the remaining ingredients except the parsley and lemon, and turn the birds in this marinade. Leave for 1 hour before cooking over glowing embers or under a hot broiler for 5–6 minutes, until browned all over but still juicy inside. Turn over once, leaving them longer with the bone side towards the fire, and be careful not to overcook.

　　

Step 3

Serve sprinkled with parsley, accompanied with lemon wedges.

　　

Variation

Step 4

For a Lebanese flavor, marinate in a mixture of olive oil with the juice of 1 lemon, 2 crushed garlic cloves, and salt and pepper.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf