A different kind of noodle dish, one in which the noodles are fried crisp and then topped with a simply made stir-fry. Of course, you can use any stir-fry you like on top of a bed of noodles like this one; the noodles are essentially taking the place of rice.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　Salt to taste

　　3/4 pound fresh Chinese egg noodles

　　1/4 cup peanut oil or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed

　　1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　1 cup snow peas, trimmed

　　1/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded (or reserved for stock), caps sliced

　　6 scallions, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

　　1 pound shrimp, peeled and cut into pieces if large

　　3 tablespoons soy sauce, plus a little more to taste

　　2 teaspoons dark sesame oil

　　

Step 1

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt. When it is ready, cook the noodles until tender, stirring occasionally—this will take only a few minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, and drain again.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, put half the oil in a large skillet or wok, preferably nonstick, and turn the heat to medium-high. Add the ginger, garlic, snow peas, shiitakes, and scallions, along with about 1/4 cup water (or use white wine or stock), and cook, stirring and shaking the pan, until the snow peas are bright green and the shiitakes softened slightly. Add the shrimp and soy sauce and, if the mixture is dry, add a little more water or stock. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp turn pink, 3 or 4 minutes. Transfer this mixture to a bowl and keep it warm.

　　

Step 3

Put the remaining oil in the skillet over medium-high heat and add the noodles. Cook, undisturbed, until brown and crisp on the bottom (adjust the heat so the noodles brown but do not burn). Use a large spatula to flip the noodles. Brown on the other side, then slide onto a platter. Quickly reheat the stir-fry mixture in the skillet, then put on top of the noodle cake; sprinkle with a little more soy sauce and sesame oil, cut into pieces, and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.