The simplest way to enjoy wild shrimp is to cook them fast and serve them warm, still in their shells, with melted butter. This recipe takes the opposite but equally flavorful tack: the shrimp are slow-cooked, infusing the entire soup with sweet shrimpiness.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1/2 pound wild shrimp (see Sources, page 264), peeled and deveined

　　2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　4 large shallots, finely minced (about 1/2 cup)

　　1/4 cup fish sauce, plus more if needed

　　1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

　　1 teaspoon sugar

　　1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons jasmine or other aromatic long-grain white rice

　　2 tablespoons expeller-pressed vegetable oil

　　3 cups shelled fresh or frozen green peas

　　1 1/2 cups finely chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems

　　1 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts

　　2 cups chopped tender pea greens or fresh spinach

　　

Step 1

Salt-clean the shrimp: Put the shrimp in a colander and sprinkle with the salt. Toss with your hands, rubbing gently to make sure all surfaces are evenly covered. Let sit for 5 minutes; then rinse in cold water and drain. Cut each shrimp in half lengthwise and then in half again crosswise. Put the shrimp in a medium bowl and add the shallots, fish sauce, pepper, and sugar. Mix well and let marinate covered at room temperature for 1 hour.

　　

Step 2

Put the rice into a spice mill and pulse it a few times to grind, about 10 seconds total. The largest grains will be a third of their original size.

　　

Step 3

Heat the oil over medium-low in a 4-quart pot and add the shrimp mixture. Sauté, stirring frequently, for 3 to 5 minutes, until all the shrimp are pink and the shallots have softened but not colored. Add the rice and stir well. Gradually add 2 quarts water, stirring constantly to avoid clumping. Raise the heat to high and bring the mixture to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, for 20 to 25 minutes, until the rice is completely tender and the broth has thickened. Raise the heat to high, add the peas, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the peas are just tender; remove from the heat. Add the cilantro, scallions, and pea greens, and season with a splash of fish sauce if necessary.

　　Cooking in the Moment