Meat to be grilled for shish kebab, usually lamb, is ideally marinated in a paste of yogurt, minced onion, and spices, even if it’s only for a few minutes. If you prefer to eliminate the yogurt, use a couple of tablespoons of olive oil instead. And if you have dried ground sumac—a sour spice found at all Middle Eastern stores—sprinkle a little of it on the meat just before serving (you won’t need the lemon). If you choose to grill other vegetables—tomatoes, peppers, mushrooms, more onions, whatever— skewer them separately. Simply brush them with a little olive oil and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. These skewers, of course, are ideal with Pilaf (page 513). Other cuts of meat you can use here: beef tenderloin (filet mignon) or boneless chicken thighs (which will require a little longer cooking time).

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 large onions, peeled

　　1 cup yogurt

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　Juice of 1 lemon

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　1 tablespoon ground cumin

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1/4 teaspoon cayenne

　　2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into 1 1/2- to 2-inch chunks

　　Lemon wedges for serving

　　Tarator (page 600) or Thin Yogurt Sauce (page 597) for serving

　　

Step 1

When you’re ready to cook—if you choose not to marinate the meat—start a charcoal or gas grill; the fire should be moderately hot and the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Mince one of the onions and combine it in a large bowl with the yogurt, oil, lemon juice, garlic, cumin, salt, pepper, and cayenne; taste and adjust the seasoning. Marinate the lamb in this mixture for at least a few minutes, for several hours at room temperature, or overnight in the refrigerator.

　　

Step 2

If you’re using wooden skewers, soak them in water to cover for a few minutes. Cut the remaining onion into quarters, then separate it into large pieces. Thread the meat and onion alternately onto the skewers, leaving a little space between pieces. Grill, turning as each side browns and brushing with the remaining marinade, for 6 to 10 minutes for rare meat, longer if you like it more well done. Serve, with the lemon wedges and Tarator or Thin Yogurt Sauce.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.