In North Africa, sfendj, also called khfaf, are sold by street vendors. People buy them for breakfast. They can be plain or with raisins. Eat them hot as soon as they are done or reheat in the oven. Serve them with honey or dusted with sugar.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 20

　　1 package or 2 teaspoons active dry yeast

　　About 1 1/4 cups lukewarm water

　　Pinch of sugar

　　3 cups unbleached white bread flour

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　3 tablespoons raisins (optional)

　　Oil for frying

　　Confectioners’ sugar to sprinkle on or honey to serve with

　　

Step 1

In a large bowl, dilute the yeast in about 1/2 cup of the warm water with a pinch of sugar and leave to rest until it froths.

　　

Step 2

Put the flour in a bowl and mix in the salt. Pour in the yeast mixture and just enough of the remaining water to have a dough that holds together in a ball. Knead vigorously for 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic. Add the raisins, if you like, and work them evenly into the dough. Pour 1 tablespoon oil into the bowl and turn the dough around in it to grease it all over. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for about 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk.

　　

Step 3

Heat about 1 1/2 inches oil in a large pan or deep skillet until it sizzles when you throw in a piece of bread.

　　

Step 4

Punch down the dough and knead for 1/2 minute. Oil your hands. Take lumps the size of an egg and roll into balls. Flatten each between your hands and make a hole in the middle with your finger. Enlarge the hole by pulling out the dough to make a ring, or twirl it around your finger.

　　

Step 5

Lower the rings gently into the oil, a few at a time, and lower the heat to medium. The dough will puff up at once. Turn the rings over once, and cook until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towels and serve sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar or accompanied by a bowl of honey.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf