The bitter Seville orange is the most traditional and arguably the finest marmalade fruit of all. Only available for a few short weeks starting in mid-January, this knobbly, often misshapen orange has a unique aromatic quality and is very rich in pectin. However, you can use almost any citrus fruit to make good marmalade–consider sweet oranges, blood oranges, grapefruit, limes, clementines, kumquats, or a combination of two or three (see my suggested variations ). There are two basic ways of making marmalade. My first choice is the sliced fruit method, which involves cutting the raw peel into shreds before cooking. I find this technique produces a brighter, clearer result. However, the whole fruit method, in which the fruit is boiled whole before being cut up, is easier and less time-consuming. It tends to create a darker, less delicate preserve–but that, of course, might be exactly what you want. I’ve given you both methods here.

　　

Ingredients

Sliced fruit method

2 1/4 pounds Seville oranges

　　1/3 cup lemon juice

　　10 cups Demerara sugar

　　(makes five to six 12-ounce jars)

　　

Whole fruit method

2 1/4 pounds Seville oranges

　　1/3 cup lemon juice

　　10 cups granulated sugar

　　(makes five 12-ounce jars)

　　

Sliced fruit method

Step 1

Scrub the oranges, remove the buttons at the top of the fruit, then cut in half. Squeeze out the juice and keep to one side. Using a sharp knife, slice the peel, pith and all, into thin, medium, or chunky shreds, according to your preference. Put the sliced peel into a bowl with the orange juice and cover with 10 cups of water. Let soak overnight or for up to 24 hours.

　　

Step 2

Transfer the whole mixture to a preserving pan, bring to a boil, then simmer slowly, covered, until the peel is tender. This should take approximately 2 hours, by which time the contents of the pan will have reduced by about one-third.

　　

Step 3

Stir in the lemon juice and sugar. Bring the marmalade to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Boil rapidly until the setting point is reached (see p. 41), 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat. Let cool for 8 to 10 minutes–a little longer if the peel is in very chunky pieces–then stir gently to disperse any scum. Pour into warm, sterilized jars and seal immediately (see pp. 21–22). Use within 2 years.

　　

Whole fruit method

Step 4

Scrub the oranges, remove the buttons at the top, and put the whole oranges into a preserving pan with 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the orange skins are tender and can be pierced easily with a fork.

　　

Step 5

When cool enough to handle, take the oranges out. Measure and keep the cooking water–you should have about 7 cups. Bring it up to this amount with more water if you have less, or boil to reduce if you have more.

　　

Step 6

Cut the oranges in half and remove the seeds with a fork, flicking them into a bowl. Strain any juice from the seeds back into the cooking water, then discard the seeds.

　　

Step 7

Meanwhile, cut up the orange peel and flesh into thick, medium, or thin shreds. Put the cut-up fruit into the strained cooking liquid. Add the lemon juice and sugar and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Bring to a rolling boil and boil rapidly until the setting point is reached (see p. 41), 10 to 15 minutes.

　　

Step 8

Let cool for 10 to 12 minutes–a little longer if you’ve cut the peel into very chunky pieces–then stir gently to disperse any scum. Pour into warm, sterilized jars and seal immediately (see pp. 21–22). Use within 2 years.

　　

Variations

Step 9

You can use both methods for making many other delicious marmalades:

　　

Lemon marmalade with honey

Step 10

Use 2 1/4 pounds of lemons instead of oranges, and omit the extra lemon juice. Replace 1 1/4 cups of the sugar with 3/4 cup of honey, adding it at the same time.

　　

Three-fruit marmalade

Step 11

Use a mixture of grapefruit, lemons, and sweet oranges to make a total of 2 1/4 pounds of fruit.

　　

Ruby red marmalade

Step 12

Both pink grapefruit and blood oranges make wonderful marmalades, though I prefer to use the sliced fruit method for these fruits. Add 3 tablespoons of lemon juice to every pound of fruit.

　　

Seville and ginger marmalade

Step 13

Replace 1 1/4 cups of the sugar with 9 ounces of chopped crystallized ginger, adding it along with the sugar.

　　

Whiskey marmalade

Step 14

Add 1/4 cup of whiskey to the marmalade at the end of cooking.

　　

P.S.

Step 15

Don’t limit marmalade to the breakfast table, for its traits and qualities can be well used in other culinary ways. I like to replace candied peel in fruitcakes with a tablespoonful or two of marmalade, and I always add some to my Christmas mincemeat (p. 74). Marmalade makes a marvelous glaze for oven-baked ham, as well as sweet-and-sour chicken or pork dishes. Best of all, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls will make a glorious golden topping for a good old-fashioned steamed pudding.

　　

P.P.S.

Step 16

For generations, marmalade makers have cooked up the mass of seeds found inside citrus fruits in the belief that they are full of pectin. However, most of the pectin is actually found in the citrus peel, and I rely purely on this for the setting power in my marmalades.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.