This starter comes together in two stages: first, you’ll create the seed culture, then you’ll convert it to a mother starter. In the first stage, you aren’t making the starter that actually goes into your dough; you’re making a starter (the seed) that makes another starter (the mother), from which you’ll make your final dough. There are many ways to make a seed culture. The simplest is with just flour and water. This does work, but not always on a predictable schedule. I’ve seen methods on the Internet calling for onion skins, wine grapes, plums, potatoes, milk, buttermilk, and yogurt. These can all serve as fuel for the microorganisms, and all of them also work for making a seed culture. But ultimately, a starter (and bread itself) is really about fermented flour. So in this book the goal is to create the conditions in which the appropriate organisms can grow and thrive so that they can create great-tasting bread. The following method produces a versatile starter that can be used to make 100 percent sourdough breads as well as mixed-method breads (breads leavened with a combination of wild yeast starter and commercial yeast). However, if you already have a starter or used a different method to make a starter, feel free to use it. The starter can be made from whole wheat flour, unbleached white bread flour, or whole rye flour. (Rye bread fanatics tend to keep a ryeonly starter, but in my opinion a wheat starter works just as well in rye breads.) If you already have a finished starter, whether whole grain or white, it can be used as the mother starter for any of the formulas in this book, as directed in the various recipes. You may wonder about the inclusion of pineapple juice in the early stages of making the seed starter. Pineapple juice neutralizes a dastardly bacteria that can sabotage your starter (this bacteria, leuconostoc, has been showing up more often in flour and I have written about it extensively on my blog; see Resources, page 205). If you’re the mad scientist type, as so many bread baking enthusiasts are, feel free to experiment with other acids, such as ascorbic acid or citric acid, as in orange juice or lemon juice. One final word of advice: If your seed culture doesn’t respond in exactly the way described, on the exact schedule predicted, just give it more time. In most instances, the good microbial guys eventually prevail, allowing the seed to thrive and fulfill its mission.

Ingredients

　　1/4 cup (2 oz / 56.5 g) unsweetened pineapple juice, filtered water, or spring water

　　In a small nonreactive bowl or 2-cup glass measuring cup, stir the flour and juice together with a spoon or whisk to make a paste or sponge with the consistency of thin pancake batter. Make sure all of the flour is hydrated. (Transfer the remaining juice into a clean jar and refrigerate it; or just go ahead and drink it.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave it at room temperature for 48 hours. Two to three times each day, stir the seed culture for about 10 seconds with a wet spoon or whisk to aerate it. There will be few or no bubbles (indicating fermentation activity) during the first 24 hours, but bubbles may begin to appear within 48 hours.

　　"Reprinted with permission from Peter Reinhart's Artisan Breads Every Day: Fast and Easy Recipes for World-Class Breads by Peter Reinhart, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc." Photo credit: Leo Gong © 2009Peter Reinhart is a baking instructor and faculty member at Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina. He was the cofounder of Brother Juniper's Bakery in Santa Rosa, California, and is the author of seven books on bread baking, including Crust and Crumb, the 2002 James Beard Cookbook of the Year and IACP Cookbook of the Year, The Bread Baker's Apprentice, and the 2008 James Beard Award-winning Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads.