Season: June to October. This is essentially Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s classic Glutney, or River Cottage chutney, which first appeared in The River Cottage Cookbook. The fruit and vegetable chopping is time-consuming, but important. Whizzing everything up in a food processor would give a very different, sloppy-textured result.

　　

Ingredients

makes twelve to thirteen 8-ounce jars

　　

For the spice bag

2 ounces fresh ginger, bruised

　　12 cloves

　　2 teaspoons black peppercorns

　　1 teaspoon coriander seeds

　　2 1/4 pounds summer squash, peeled (if need be) and diced

　　2 1/4 pounds green tomatoes or tomatillos, peeled and diced

　　1 pound, 2 ounces cooking apples, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 2 ounces onions, peeled and diced.

　　3 cups golden raisins

　　2 1/2 cups light brown sugar

　　2 1/2 cups cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

　　2 teaspoons dried chile flakes (optional)

　　Pinch of salt

　　

Variations: Gingered rhubarb and fig (spring)

For the spice bag

　　2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

　　2 teaspoons black peppercorns

　　2 ounces fresh ginger, bruised

　　3 pounds, 6 ounces rhubarb, trimmed and chopped

　　2 1/4 pounds cooking apples, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 2 ounces onions, peeled and diced

　　2 1/2 cups dried figs, chopped and soaked overnight in the juice of 3 large oranges with the grated zest of 2 oranges

　　3 1/2 ounces crystallized ginger, chopped

　　

Apricot and date (late summer)

For the spice bag

　　2 ounces fresh ginger, bruised

　　1 teaspoon cloves

　　1 teaspoon cumin seeds

　　1 teaspoon coriander seeds

　　2 teaspoons black peppercorns

　　1 pound, 2 ounces unsulfured dried apricots, chopped, soaked overnight, and drained

　　2 1/4 pounds summer squash, peeled

　　(if need be) and diced

　　1 pound, 2 ounces cooking apples, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 2 ounces onions, peeled and diced

　　1 1/2 cups pitted dates, chopped

　　1 1/2 cups raisins

　　

Plum and pear (late summer)

For the spice bag

　　2 ounces fresh ginger, bruised

　　2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

　　2 teaspoons black peppercorns

　　2 1/4 pounds plums, quartered and pitted

　　1 pound, 10 ounces pears, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 10 ounces cooking apples, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 2 ounces shallots, peeled and diced

　　1 1/2 cups pitted prunes, coarsely chopped

　　

Pumpkin and quince (early autumn)

For the spice bag

　　2 teaspoons peppercorns

　　12 cloves

　　2 cinnamon sticks

　　2 1/4 pounds peeled and deseeded pumpkin, diced

　　2 1/4 pounds quince, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 10 ounces cooking apples, peeled, cored, and diced

　　1 pound, 10 ounces red onions, peeled and diced

　　3 cups raisins

　　2 ounces freshly grated horseradish root

　　

Step 1

Make your spice bag by tying up the spices in an 8-inch square of cheesecloth. Put this into a preserving pan with all the other ingredients and bring slowly to a boil, stirring occasionally. This will take awhile, as there will be lots in the pan, but don’t hurry it.

　　

Step 2

Let the mixture simmer, uncovered, for 2 1/2 to 3 hours – maybe even a bit more. You do not have to hover, hawk-eyed, over the pan, but do keep an eye on it and stir regularly to ensure it doesn’t burn. It’s ready when it is glossy, thick, rich in color and well reduced – but with the chunks of fruit and vegetables still clearly discernible. It is thick enough if, when you draw a wooden spoon through it, the chutney parts to reveal the bottom of the pan for a few seconds.

　　

Step 3

Pot the chutney while warm in sterilized jars (see p. 21). Pack down with the back of a spoon to remove any air pockets. Seal with vinegar-proof lids (see p. 22). Store in a cool, dark place for a couple of months to mature before using. Use within 2 years.

　　

VARIATIONs

Step 4

For each variation, use 2 1/2 cups of light brown sugar, 2 1/2 cups of cider vinegar or white wine vinegar, a pinch of salt, and 2 teaspoons of dried chile flakes (if using) and follow the basic method.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.