A wonderful technique and combination of flavors that works so well with swordfish that I would be reluctant to substitute (Spanish mackerel, usually quite difficult to find, would be a good alternative). If you’re unfamiliar with lemongrass, trim its ends, then slit and peel its tough outer layer to expose the tender core; you usually get about 1 tablespoon from each stalk. See page 500 for information on Thai fish sauce (nam pla). Sticky Rice (page 508) is the thing here, along with a lightly dressed salad or very simple vegetable dish.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　6 tablespoons peanut or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed

　　2 swordfish steaks, each 3/4 to 1 pound

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 tablespoons minced lemongrass

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

　　1 small fresh chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced, or to taste

　　3 tablespoons tamarind paste (page 585) mixed with 1 cup water

　　3 tablespoons nam pla

　　5 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced

　　Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. A minute later, add the fish (in batches if necessary) and brown quickly on both sides, sprinkling with salt and pepper as it cooks, for a total of about 4 minutes. Turn the heat to low and transfer the fish to a plate.

　　

Step 2

Add the lemongrass, minced garlic, ginger, and chile to the skillet and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic begins to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tamarind mixture and nam pla and bring to a boil; adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily. Return the swordfish to the pan and cover.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, put the remaining 1/2 cup oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and cook, stirring once in a while, until it is brown and crisp, about 5 minutes; do not let it burn. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel (you can reuse the oil if you like).

　　

Step 4

The fish is done when a thin-bladed knife inserted into its thickest part meets little resistance. Transfer it to a plate. The sauce should be syrupy; if it is not, reduce it over high heat, stirring constantly, for a couple of minutes. (If it is too dry, add a little water and stir to incorporate.) Pour the sauce over the fish and garnish with the fried garlic and the cilantro.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.