Editor's note: This recipe is adapted from chef Paul Flynn of The Tannery in Dungarvan, Ireland.

　　Wild salmon, once so plentiful in Ireland that domestic servants could stipulate in their contracts that they should not have to eat it more than three times per week, has now become a luxury item on both sides of the Atlantic. However, when top-notch fish is available, this simple preparation is a great way to showcase it. The compound butter, with its use of raisins, harks back to the dried fruits popular in the Middle Ages, and the capers show the fondness of contemporary Irish cooks for Mediterranean flavors. Irish butter, with its high fat content, will add a particularly rich flavor, but regular American butter can be substituted.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

　　

For butter

1/4 cup raisins

　　1 stick Irish butter such as Kerrygold, softened*

　　1/3 cup capers

　　Grated zest of 1 lemon

　　1 tablespoon chopped chives

　　

For salmon

8 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, preferably wild

　　2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

　　2 tablespoons vegetable oil

　　*Available at specialty foods shops. If unavailable, substitute regular unsalted butter and add 1 teaspoon kosher salt.

　　

Make butter:

Step 1

In small bowl, combine raisins and 1/2 cup hot water. Cover and let soak 2 hours, then drain.

　　

Step 2

In food processor, combine butter, raisins, capers, and lemon zest and pulse until well combined. Stir in chives. Transfer to large sheet of wax paper and roll into 6-inch-long log. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate at least 1 hour to allow flavors to develop.

　　

Make salmon:

Step 3

Season salmon fillets with salt and pepper. In 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil until hot but not smoking. Add 4 fillets, skin-sides-up, and sear until undersides are well browned, about 4 minutes. Turn fillets over and sear until just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer to serving platter and keep warm. Wipe pan clean, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and repeat with remaining 4 fillets.

　　

Step 4

Slice log of butter into 8 coins. Top each salmon fillet with 1 coin and serve immediately.