This is a recipe I created to celebrate satsuma season. Satsumas are sweet, juicy tangerines that flourish in Louisiana during the winter. (If you can’t find them in your area, any tangerine will do.) You can certainly make the marmalade in larger quantities—it keeps well and is terrific with any grilled or roasted meat, served hot or cold. Try it with grilled quail, duck breast, or even smoked pork sausage or ham. Brining is a technique that serves many purposes. It tenderizes, flavors, and keeps meat juicy. This brine can be used with chicken, turkey breast (I’d leave the soy out), and pork loin or tenderloin. You can throw in herbs or spices appropriate to the dish, but you’ll want to keep the salt/sugar ratio the same. Green beans with shallots make the perfect accompaniment to this dish.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 tablespoons brown sugar

　　1 tablespoon salt plus additional for seasoning pork before cooking

　　1 tablespoon soy sauce

　　5 allspice berries

　　1 star anise

　　1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

　　1 bay leaf

　　4 (10-ounce) center-cut pork loin chops or T-bone chops

　　Pepper

　　Satsuma-Horseradish Marmalade

　　

Satsuma-Horseradish Marmalade

6 satsumas (or large tangerines)

　　1 1/2 cups sugar

　　1 small onion, diced

　　3 roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced

　　3–4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

　　2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

　　Prepared horseradish

　　1 tablespoon ketchup

　　Salt

　　

Step 1

Place all the ingredients except pork chops, pepper, and marmalade in a medium saucepan and add 3 cups water. Bring the brine to a boil, whisking to dissolve the sugar and salt, then simmer for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool completely, stirring occasionally. When cool, pat the pork chops dry and place in a Ziploc bag. Pour in the brine, seal the bag, and place in a bowl. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, flipping the bag at least once to be sure the chops are evenly marinated. Meanwhile, make the Satsuma-Horseradish Marmalade.

　　

Step 2

When ready to serve, remove the chops from the brine, pat dry with paper towels, and let sit at room temperature for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Sear (over medium-high heat), grill, or broil for 5–6 minutes on each side. Serve hot with the marmalade on the side.

　　

Satsuma-Horseradish Marmalade

Step 3

Juice 2 of the satsumas, removing the seeds. Grate the zest of the remaining 4 satsumas, then peel and cut the flesh into smallish pieces, removing the seeds and reserving the juice.

　　

Step 4

Place the juice, zest, and satsuma pieces in a 2-quart saucepan with the sugar, onion, tomatoes, vinegar, ginger, and 1 cup water, and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer gently over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30-45 minutes. When the mixture is thickened and almost syrupy, stir in horseradish to taste, then add the ketchup. Season with salt and let cool.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.