Ingredients

　　Crack 1 or 2 eggs per person into a bowl. Choose a heavy-bottomed pan of a size such that the eggs will be about 1/2 inch deep in the pan. (A 10-inch skillet is perfect for scrambling a dozen eggs.) Heat the pan over medium heat for a few minutes. This is key: a properly heated pan will keep the eggs from sticking. Meanwhile, lightly beat or stir the eggs together. If they are stirred or beaten too much the eggs will be runny and won’t have as much body when cooked. Season them with salt and pepper (and chopped herbs, if you like), using a generous pinch of salt for every 2 eggs. When the pan is hot, add a hazelnut-size piece of butter for every 2 eggs. When the butter is almost finished foaming, pour in the eggs. Let the eggs cook undisturbed for a few moments; when you see them start to set, begin to push the eggs around in the pan, allowing liquid egg to flow out over the hot pan. Cook the scrambled eggs until they’re just a little looser than you like them (I like mine very moist); they will continue cooking when you take them off the heat. Serve immediately.

　　The Art of Simple Food