In the Middle East it is the more available lamb’s sweetbreads (sweetbreads are the thymus gland) that are used, but calf’s sweetbreads are much more delicate, with an unusual creamy-tender texture. You must start the initial preparation a few hours before you want to cook them, as they need lengthy soaking.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　1 pound calf ’s sweetbreads

　　1 onion, thinly sliced

　　3 tablespoons butter

　　1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

　　Juice of 1/2 lemon

　　

Step 1

Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water for 2–3 hours to remove any traces of blood, changing the water twice. Rinse them and remove the tough outer membrane and any bits of fat, but leave the inner membrane intact so that the sweetbreads don’t disintegrate. Put them in a pan of lightly salted water, bring slowly to the boil, and simmer 3 minutes; this firms them up. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and plunge them into cold water. Drain and dry them, and pull off any gristle.

　　

Step 2

Fry the onion in the butter in a large skillet, over low heat, until soft.

　　

Step 3

Slice the sweetbreads and put them in the skillet. Dust lightly with cinnamon and cook the slices for 1 minute on each side.

　　

Step 4

Squeeze lemon juice over them and serve.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf