At every major holiday or event in Istria—no matter what else—there must be a pot of sauerkraut with big cuts of cured and fresh pork buried inside. This dish belongs in the category of treasured one-pot meals, filled with flavor, that can feed a crowd yet require little attention from the cook. It is enjoyed for days—even better reheated—and if there are any leftovers, they are turned into jota, page 42. It is essential that cured meats be of the best quality, so visit a real Eastern European–style butcher if you can. Good sauerkraut is also essential. If you can’t find genuine fresh sauerkraut, sold in bulk, I recommend buying bagged sauerkraut, in the refrigerator cases of most supermarkets, rather than canned.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8 to 10

　　4 pounds sauerkraut

　　4 cups fresh cold water

　　1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　5 fresh bay leaves

　　3 fat garlic cloves, thinly sliced

　　1 tablespoon black peppercorns

　　1 1/2 teaspoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or more as needed

　　1-pound solid chunk fresh pork shoulder (butt)

　　1/2-pound solid chunk smoked pork loin or Canadian bacon

　　1/2-pound slab bacon

　　1 pound smoked pork sausages

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　

Recommended Equipment

A heavy-bottomed, 8-quart, 12-inch saucepan

　　

Step 1

Drain the sauerkraut in a colander—set in the sink for convenience. Dump the sauerkraut into a big pot or bowl, cover it with fresh water, stir to rinse well, then drain again through the colander. Repeat the rinsing and draining. Taste the sauerkraut, and if it is still very salty or acidic, rinse and drain it a third time.

　　

Step 2

Put the sauerkraut in the big saucepan, and pour in the 4 cups water. Drizzle the olive oil over the top; drop in the bay leaves, garlic, peppercorns, and salt. Toss the sauerkraut with the seasonings. Rinse the chunks of pork butt and smoked pork loin and the bacon slab, and nestle them into the sauerkraut.

　　

Step 3

Cover the saucepan, and set it over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and let it simmer, covered, for about 1 1/2 hours. Occasionally, stir up all the sauerkraut and turn the meat over. The liquid should gradually reduce, but don’t let the pan get dry.

　　

Step 4

Rinse the sausages, stir up the sauerkraut, then tuck the sausages in with the pork chunks. Simmer for another 30 minutes, or until the meats are all tender and the liquid is almost completely absorbed. Cook uncovered to evaporate the liquid if necessary.

　　

Step 5

Turn off the heat, and season with freshly ground black pepper to taste and more salt if needed. Let the sauerkraut sit for 15 minutes. Slice the meats and arrange on a platter, surrounding the sauerkraut, and serve.

　　From Lidia's Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Copyright (c) 2007 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York.