The effect of salt-baking is similar to baking (or rather steaming) in parchment paper (en papilotte; see page 215): the salt absorbs steam and becomes a hard shell when baked, creating a vacuum inside that seals in flavor and moisture (without making the fish taste overly salty). As when cooking en papillote, you can layer the fish with aromatics—lemons and herbs as in this recipe, or ginger, scallions, and lemongrass for Asian flavors—for more complexity. Since the skin will not have crisped in the oven, you will need to remove it before serving the fish. Before doing this, you might want to invite your guests into the kitchen for a glimpse of the fish in its salt crust (it’s an impressive sight) and perhaps to assist you in cracking it open.

　　

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6

　　1 whole fish (2 to 3 pounds), such as red snapper or sea bass, scaled and cleaned

　　3 pounds kosher salt

　　4 large egg whites

　　1/2 bunch fresh thyme, plus 2 tablespoons leaves

　　2 lemons, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds

　　1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley

　　4 dried bay leaves

　　

Step 1

Prepare fish Heat oven to 450°F, with rack in center. Rinse fish thoroughly inside and out (until no traces of blood remain). Pat dry with paper towels.

　　

Step 2

Prepare crust In a large bowl, stir together salt, egg whites, and thyme leaves to combine thoroughly. Pack enough of the salt mixture into the bottom of a 13-by-9-by-2-inch baking pan so it is 1/2 inch deep. Arrange half of the lemon rounds, the parsley, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves on top of salt to follow the shape of the fish, then tuck the remainder into the fish cavity. Place the fish on top. Pour the remaining salt mixture over fish, then spread it with your fingers to completely cover the body (the tail may stick out of the pan).

　　

Step 3

Roast Place in oven and roast for 15 minutes per pound, or 30 minutes for a 2-pound fish. (One way chefs check for doneness is to insert a metal skewer through the salt crust and into the fish in the thickest part, then hold it to the chin, just under lower lip, for 15 seconds; if the metal feels very warm, the fish is ready.) Remove pan from oven and allow the fish to rest 5 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Serve Gently but firmly tap on the crust with a spoon, then gently break away. Transfer fish to a cutting board. Holding the skin at the tail end with one hand, carefully insert a knife under skin, then run the knife along the length of the fish to remove the skin, being careful not to tear the flesh. Trim the edges to make even, as desired. Lift fish in pieces, discarding bones, and serve.

　　

ROASTED WHOLE FISH

Step 5

To roast a whole fish (without a salt crust), heat oven to 450°F and rinse and pat dry fish as directed above. Score skin in serving-size portions. Place fish in a roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet; drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Stuff cavity with herbs and lemon slices (as above). Roast 10 minutes per inch of thickness (flesh should flake slightly when done). Serve drizzled with oil and fresh lemon juice.

　　Reprinted with permission from Martha Stewart's Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook by Martha Stewart. Copyright © 2008 by Martha Stewart. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Martha Stewart is the author of dozens of bestselling books on cooking, entertaining, gardening, weddings, and decorating. She is the host of The Martha Stewart Show, the Emmy-winning, daily national syndicated program, and founder of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, which publishes several magazines, including Martha Stewart Living; produces Martha Stewart Living Radio, channel 112 on SIRIUS Satellite Radio; and provides a wealth of ideas and information on www.marthastewart.com.