You find this dish, or one like it, everywhere there is salt cod—which is to say, almost everywhere in the North Atlantic and parts of the Mediterranean. I like the Spanish version, which is reminiscent of a strong pasta sauce. In fact, thinned just a bit, this would make an excellent sauce for pasta, though I still prefer it with crusty bread. You can poach almost any fish in this sauce—any white-fleshed fish will work, though cod is the most obvious and logical choice—but it will never have the character brought to the table by salt cod, especially if you take the time to fry it first, as in the variation.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 pound boneless salt cod, soaked and cooked (page 245)

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　3 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly smashed

　　3 anchovy fillets, or to taste

　　One 28-ounce can whole plum tomatoes, drained and chopped

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　2 tablespoons drained capers

　　1/2 cup pitted green olives

　　Hot red pepper flakes to taste

　　Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Drain the salt cod and pick out any stray bones or pieces of skin, then cut it into chunks. Combine the oil and garlic in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the anchovies and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is lightly golden and the anchovies broken up. Raise the heat to medium high and add the tomatoes along with a little salt and some pepper. Cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture gets saucy, about 15 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Add the capers, olives, pepper flakes, and cod. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and gently, until the cod is hot. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then garnish and serve.

　　

Fried Salt Cod in Tomato Sauce

Step 3

More work, but better: After poaching the salt cod, cut it into chunks. Drain well on paper towels, then dredge in flour and fry on both sides in at least 1/4 inch of hot olive oil. Add to the tomato sauce as directed.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.