Salsify is the root of a member of the sunflower family, although the plants—also called “goat’s beard”—have a flower that looks more like a giant dandelion. The roots range from inky black to golden orange to turnip white. Salsify carries the nickname “oyster plant” due to its unique flavor, which has often been described as “oystery.” I can’t say I agree, but I do like it. The most popular variety grown for cooking is Mammoth Sandwich Island, which looks like a parsnip. “Scorzanera” is the Godfather-sounding name for black salsify. Both types can be used interchangeably in this recipe. When working with salsify remember to treat it as you would an apple by placing it in water with a little lemon juice in it to keep the salsify from turning brown. Peel it just as you would a carrot, working near the sink, as it produces a milky sap that you will want to rinse off.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　1 pound salsify, peeled and chopped (about 2 cups)

　　1/2 cup chopped celery

　　1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

　　3 cups half-and-half

　　1 teaspoon salt

　　Sprinkle of cayenne pepper

　　2 large egg yolks, beaten

　　Grate of fresh nutmeg

　　

Step 1

In a large saucepan set over medium heat, cook the salsify, celery, and onion in the half-and-half until the mixture boils. Reduce the heat to low and add the salt and cayenne. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender.

　　

Step 2

Remove the pan from the heat. Using an immersion blender, or working in batches with a blender or food processor, blend until the mixture is almost smooth.

　　

Step 3

Add a small amount of hot bisque to the egg yolks and whisk to combine. Stir the yolk mixture into the soup. Return the pan to low heat and cook for 1 minute; do not boil. Serve immediately, with some nutmeg grated over the top.

　　Cooks' Note

　　Salsify has the nickname “viper’s grass” and was thought to provide protection from snakebite.

　　A Southerly Course