This wonderful, heartwarming winter drink is hot milk thickened with the starchy ground bulb of an orchid called Orchis mascula. This was sold by street vendors from the large copper urn in which it was made. The stone-colored powder called sahlab (salep in Turkish and Greek) is expensive and not easy to find. I have often bought it in Middle Eastern markets only to discover that it was a fake or adulterated mix. Cornstarch is an alternative which gives a creamy texture but not the same special flavor.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　1 1/2 tablespoons pulverized sahlab or 2 tablespoons cornstarch

　　4 cups milk

　　3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste

　　2 teaspoons rose or orange-blossom water (optional)

　　2 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios

　　Ground cinnamon

　　

Step 1

In a bowl mix the pulverized sahlab or cornstarch with a few tablespoons cold milk.

　　

Step 2

Bring the remaining milk to a boil. Pour in the sahlab or cornstarch mixture, stirring vigorously so as not to let lumps form. Cook over very low heat, stirring all the time, until the milk thickens (about 10 minutes). Then stir in the sugar and, if you like, rose or orange-blossom water.

　　

Step 3

Serve in cups (a ladle is useful), with finely chopped or ground pistachios sprinkled on top and a dusting of cinnamon.

　　

Variation

Step 4

In Egypt it is the custom to sprinkle grated coconut on top.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf