The first time I discovered “gourmet” ice cream, the flavor was rum raisin, made by one of those premium brands with lots of vowels in its name. Aside from all those vowels, it also had lots and lots of raisins plumped in real, honest-to-goodness rum, and I had never had store-bought ice cream that was so smooth and so creamy. Coincidentally, at about the same time I discovered those little round pints of premium ice cream, I learned a new way to eat ice cream: right from the little round pint container. Which, by strange coincidence (or shrewd marketing, more likely), fit just perfectly in my hand.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 1 quart (1 liter)

　　2/3 cup (100 g) mixed dark and light raisins

　　1/2 cup (125 ml) dark rum

　　1-inch (3-cm) strip of orange or lemon zest

　　3/4 cup (180 ml) whole milk

　　2/3 cup (130 g) sugar

　　1 1/2 cups (375 ml) heavy cream

　　Pinch of salt

　　4 large egg yolks

　　

Step 1

Heat the raisins, rum, and orange zest in a small saucepan. Let simmer for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat. Cover and let stand for a few hours. (The raisins can be macerated 1 day in advance.)

　　

Step 2

Warm the milk, sugar, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the heavy cream, and salt in a medium saucepan. Pour the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) cream into a large bowl and set a mesh strainer on top.

　　

Step 3

In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warmed milk into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.

　　

Step 4

Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and into the cream. Stir until cool over an ice bath, then chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator.

　　

Step 5

When ready to freeze the ice cream, drain the raisins over a bowl and reserve the rum. Discard the orange zest. Measure the drained rum and add more, if necessary, so that you have a total of 3 tablespoons (45 ml). Stir the rum into the custard.

　　

Step 6

Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. During the last few minutes of churning, add the rum-soaked raisins.

　　

Perfect Pairing

Step 7

Make Rum Raisin Vacherins, filling Meringue Nests (page 234) with Rum Raisin Ice Cream topped with Whipped Cream (page 170) and thin strips of Candied Citrus Peel (page 178) made with orange zest.

　　The Perfect Scoop