I think of Robiola as what I always want Brie to be. It’s even more lush than that French imposter, with a smooth, flowing core that’s like pure silk. The very best specimens must be tasted in Italy, where they don’t let unpasteurized milk stand between any man and his cheese. We get very fine imports here, however, and depending on the producer, your Robiola may be fashioned from either goat, sheep, or cow’s milk, or a combination. Because Robiola is so rich, I like to pair it with something tart and jammy, like this easy gooseberry compote. To serve, make sure the compote has cooled completely and the Robiola is at room temperature to allow it to be its runny, best self.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　1/4 cup water

　　1/4 cup sugar

　　1 pint gooseberries

　　Squeeze of lemon

　　Pinch of Kosher salt

　　4 ounces Robiola

　　

Step 1

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan, place over medium-high heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture turns into a light caramel. Add the gooseberries, lemon juice, and salt. Continue to cook over medium heat until you have a nice, thick syrup and the berries begin to burst, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape into a bowl and allow to cool to room temperature.

　　

Step 2

Scoop 2 tablespoons of the gooseberry compote onto each of 4 plates and serve with the Robiola.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen