When I was a kid, I used to think that beets tasted just like the dirt they were grown in. Happily, I am older, wiser, less fussy, and can appreciate the sweet earthiness of these beautiful vegetables—and I do find that dressings made with a little fruit vinegar bring out the sweet and temper the earthiness. A bright, tangy goat cheese is such a perfect match that it’s become ubiquitous on bistro menus.

　　

Ingredients

Roasted Beets

1 bunch baby beets (6 or 7), or 1 bunch regular beets (3 or 4)

　　Olive oil, as needed

　　Dressing

　　

Dressing For Red Beets

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

　　1 teaspoon raspberry vinegar

　　1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

　　3 tablespoons olive oil

　　Salt and pepper, to taste

　　

Dressing For Golden Beets

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

　　2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or pear vinegar

　　3 tablespoons olive oil, pure or extra-virgin

　　Salt and pepper, to taste

　　

Roasted Beets

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

　　

Step 2

For baby beets, slice the tops off 1/2 inch above the stem and place on a baking pan. Toss beets with just enough olive oil to evenly coat; add a little water to the bottom of the pan. Cover and bake for about 25 minutes, then test the beets by inserting a paring knife into the center of one. The knife should slip out easily when you pick it up. If not, continue to cook for 5–10 more minutes. Cool, then rub the skins off with a paper towel.

　　

Step 3

For larger beets, slice off the tops 1/2 inch above the stem and roast on a baking pan in the oven without covering and without water for about 40 minutes. Test doneness in the same manner. When they are cool enough to handle, peel with a sharp paring knife.

　　

Step 4

Place sliced or diced beets in a bowl and toss to coat with dressing. Let marinate for 10 minutes. Serve the beets simply dressed or with sliced red onion, arugula or spinach, and crumbled goat cheese or shaved ricotta salata for a more substantial salad.

　　

Dressing For Red Beets

Step 5

Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl.

　　

Dressing For Golden Beets

Step 6

Whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

　　Cooks' Note

　　For a richer salad, toss the beets with your favorite creamy horseradish or blue cheese dressing. If the beet stems and leaves are pretty, don't discard them. Instead chop them up, wash them, and sauté with garlic and olive oil as an iron-rich green vegetable.

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.