I couldn’t cook without garlic. I use it raw and cooked in all manner of dishes. Many varieties of garlic are available, each with its own individual flavor, some with white skins and some with red skins. In the spring, you can also find immature or green garlic. It looks a lot like a leek and its flavor is a little milder and subtler than that of mature garlic. Green garlic tastes great and can be used in all its phases of development. As green garlic starts to mature, the bulb of cloves begins to form, but the skin will still be moist and tender. To prepare green garlic, trim off the root end and remove any damaged or dried outer layers. Use all the white parts of the plant and the tender, light green parts of the stalk. Mature garlic starts coming to market in summer. Look for firm, tight heads of garlic that are hard and heavy. Garlic has a definite season and eventually starts to sprout; the germ inside each clove starts to turn green and grow. When it has been in storage too long, it may become oxidized, turning yellow with an unpleasant odor. If the clove has started to sprout, cut it in half and remove the green germ from the center. Do not use cloves that have begun to turn yellow. I find the easiest way to peel garlic is to press down on the head with the heel of my palm to separate it into individual cloves. Use a sharp paring knife to cut off the tip and butt end of a clove and peel off the skin. I prefer not to smash garlic unless I am going to use it right away. Garlic begins to oxidize immediately and should not remain exposed to the air once it has been smashed or cut. Chopped or pounded garlic can be kept a short time under a bit of oil.

Ingredients

　　This is best when made with firm, fresh heads of garlic that have not begun to sprout. Peel away only the outer dry papery skin of each head of garlic, but don’t separate the cloves from the head. Arrange the heads of garlic in a single layer, root side down, in an earthenware baking dish or heavy oven-proof pan that holds them snugly. Pour in chicken broth or water to a depth of 1/4 inch. Drizzle the heads with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt. For more flavor add a couple sprigs of thyme or savory and a few peppercorns. Cover tightly and bake in a 375°F oven. Check after 20 minutes. When done, the garlic should be soft and tender; if not, continue baking a little longer. When tender, drizzle with a bit more olive oil and roast, uncovered, for another 7 minutes. Roasted garlic is best served right away with toasted bread and, if you want, a little goat cheese and some olives. Pull apart the cloves, squeeze out the garlic purée onto the bread, and dip the bread into the roasting juices.

　　The Art of Simple Food