Castagne al vino are a delightful reminder from Maremma that the simple pleasures of rustic life are truly irreplaceable. Roast some chestnuts, and while they are still hot, wrap them in a wine-soaked cloth . . . wait a few minutes . . . then peel and enjoy them with a glass of wine. The question is: red or white wine? The maremmani enjoy, as I do, red wine, a good Morellino. But white wine is also delicious.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　1 pound plump fresh chestnuts, in the shell

　　1 cup or so good red or white wine

　　

Step 1

First pan-roast the chestnuts. Cut a short slit or cross in the shell of each chestnut, and scatter them all in a heavy skillet, one that has a good cover and is big enough for the nuts to roll around in one layer. Pour in a cup of water, cover the pan, turn the flame on high, and cook for 5 minutes or more, shaking the pan frequently, until all the water is evaporated. Check whether the shells have started to peel open; if they haven’t, add more water and steam a bit longer.

　　

Step 2

Next lower the heat and slowly roast the chestnuts in the dry pan, with the cover still on, for 15 to 20 minutes. Shake the pan every minute or two so the nuts roll around and don’t burn. When the shells are toasted and the nut meats are tender, turn off the heat and douse with half the wine.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, put a clean absorbent cloth (like an old table napkin) in a wide, shallow bowl or baking dish. Dump the chestnuts into the towel and drizzle with the remaining wine. Cover the chestnuts with the wet cloth while they’re still hot. Let the chestnuts absorb the wine for about 10 to 15 minutes before peeling and devouring them!

　　From Lidia's Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Copyright (c) 2007 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York.