There are chestnut roasting devices—long-handled iron skillets or perforated baskets that allow the flames direct contact with the nuts—but they are not necessary; any way you can get the chestnuts in a hot fire and close to the flames works well. Chestnuts are high in moisture—more like a fruit than a nut—and fairly perishable. Look for nuts that are dark brown, shiny, and heavy and store them in the refrigerator.

Ingredients

　　Using a small sharp knife, score an X across the soft end of each nut—or if you find it easier, on the side of the nut. Soak them in cold water for 10 minutes; then drain and dry well. Put the nuts in an iron skillet over embers in a hot part of a fireplace (or directly on the grate of a hot charcoal grill or on a sheet pan in a preheated 450°F oven) and toss frequently until the shells blacken in spots and are crisp and easy to peel, about 20 minutes. They stay warm in a few layers of tea towels for nearly an hour. If you have leftovers, peel while they are still warm.

　　Cooking in the Moment