Many Mediterranean cuisines wrap fish in leaves for grilling or roasting. This version uses Swiss chard. You can use either the white-stemmed variety or one of the colorful rainbow chards. Use fresh grape or fig leaves for an even more flavorful result.

　　

Ingredients

serves 8 as a main course

　　8 (4-ounce) salmon fillets, skin and pin bones removed

　　Olive oil, for rubbing and brushing

　　1 1/2 tablespoons sweet pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika)

　　1 1/2 tablespoons ground fennel seeds

　　1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling

　　Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

　　8 to 10 Swiss chard leaves, stalks removed

　　Roasted Corn and Smoky Tomato Salsa (page 188)

　　

Step 1

Prepare a medium-hot fire (400°F) in a wood-fired oven or cooker, or prepare a medium-hot fire in a wood-fired grill prepared for cooking with indirect heat.

　　

Step 2

Rub the salmon with olive oil. Combine the pimentón, fennel powder, the 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the pepper in a small bowl. Spread the dry mixture out on a baking sheet. Roll the salmon pieces in the mixture to coat, then set aside.

　　

Step 3

In a large sauté pan, bring 1 1/2 inches of salted water to a boil and blanch the chard leaves until they are just wilted and pliable. Remove from the pan and immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water for about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Lightly salt on one side.

　　

Step 4

Lay a salmon fillet on each chard leaf about one-third of the way in from the end nearest you. Fold in the sides of the leaves, then the top and bottom to cover the fish (use extra leaves for each packet if necessary). Set aside. Brush each packet with olive oil and place folded side down on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the chard is crisp and the salmon barely opaque throughout. Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve the packets topped with the salsa.

　　Reprinted with permission from Wood-Fired Cooking: Techniques and Recipes for the Grill, Backyard Oven, Fireplace, and Campfire by Mary Karlin, copyright © 2009. Photography copyright © 2009 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press.