This might be considered a salad, but it is a wonderful stuzzichino (something to nibble on). Slow roasting intensifies the flavor of olives and gives them an unusual yet delightful crunch. Tossed with vinegar-poached pearl onions, they make a lively and beautiful salad-condiment. Serve this as an antipasto with cured meats and cheeses, or with grilled meats and fish. It is also a great garnish for sandwiches or with slices of grilled bread. All you need is a plate, a fork, and a glass of good red wine.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 3 cups

　　1 pound well-drained pitted brine-cured olives

　　1/2 pound tiny pearl onions (1/2 inch wide, or as small as possible)

　　1/2 cup red wine vinegar

　　2 tablespoons orange zest, in fine threads or julienne slivers (see box)

　　

For Dressing

1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 300°. Spread the olives on a large baking sheet, and bake for 20 minutes, or until they have shriveled a bit and are slightly crunchy but not crisped or burned. Let them cool in the pan (they’ll dry more and become a bit crunchier).

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, cut off the root end of each onion, but don’t peel them. In a small saucepan, heat 2 cups water and the vinegar to a boil, drop in all the onions, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on their size, until they feel soft all the way through when you squeeze them but not mushy. Drain, and let them cool. Remove the skin (or pop the onion out of the skin by squeezing at the top). If the onions are 3/4 inch thick or more, slice them open and flake them apart, separating the layers; tiny onions can be left whole.

　　

Step 3

Toss the olives, onions, and orange zest in a bowl; dress with the oil and juice to taste. Marinate briefly or overnight, refrigerated, if you want. Serve at room temperature in a shallow bowl with a serving spoon.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.