Risotto alla Milanese, which my chefs and I researched (and devoured) on our culinary expedition to Milano in 2008, has apparently been a signature dish of the city for over two centuries. A recipe for it appeared in the volume Cuoco Moderno—Modern Cook—published in Milano in 1809, by a mysterious author identified as “L.O.G.” His version had almost identical elements to today’s recipes: rice cooked in butter with onions, bone marrow, cervellato (a type of salami), good beef stock, and, at the end, the addition of saffron. Almost 100 years later, the revered authority Pellegrino Artusi included in his classic collection of Italian recipes a nearly identical risotto alla Milanese, including white wine in the preparation. In twenty-first-century Milano, Artusi’s techniques and ingredients are still the standard (though usually cervellato is omitted). I encourage you to use good beef stock and excellent fresh beef marrow bones to make a truly delicious risotto alla Milanese. The stock can be homemade or store-bought—low-sodium and organic if possible; otherwise, you could substitute chicken or turkey broth. To get the best marrow, ask the butcher for marrow bones cut from the center of the leg bone above the shank. Scraping out the marrow and cooking it is easy. If you’ve never done it, you will see that, as the marrow renders its delicious fat, brown carmelized specks appear. They could be strained out, but I don’t advise it; they provide great flavor, and traditional risotto alla Milanese incorporates them.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　6 to 8 cups hot beef stock (chicken or turkey broth could be substituted)

　　1/2 teaspoon loosely packed saffron threads

　　1 1/2 pounds beef marrow bones, preferably center-cut from the leg bone

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 cups finely chopped onions

　　1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　2 cups Italian short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano

　　1 cup dry white wine

　　

FOR FINISHING

2 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces

　　1/2 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for passing

　　

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

A heavy-bottomed saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity

　　

Step 1

Heat the stock in a separate pot almost to the boil, and keep it very hot, near the risotto pan.

　　

Step 2

Pour about 1/2 cup of the stock into a heatproof cup. To toast the saffron (for more flavor): Drop the strands into the bowl of a metal spoon, separating them a bit. Hold the spoon over a low open flame for just a few seconds, until the aroma is released, then spill the threads into the 1/2 cup stock. Let them steep in a warm place.

　　

Step 3

Scrape the marrow out of the bones with a sturdy paring knife—don’t scrape off any bits of bone (if you do, pick them out). Chop the marrow into little pieces: you should have about 1/3 cup total.

　　

Step 4

Put the olive oil and marrow bits in the heavy saucepan, and set it over medium heat. As the marrow melts, stir in the chopped onions and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for several minutes, until the onions are wilted and just starting to color, then—to soften the onions further—ladle in 1/2 cup hot stock from the pot and let it simmer until completely evaporated. Add the rice all at once, raise the heat, and stir for a couple of minutes, until the grains are toasted (but not browned). Pour in the wine, and cook, stirring continuously, until nearly all of the liquid has been absorbed.

　　

Step 5

Ladle in 2 cups of the hot stock, and stir steadily as the rice absorbs the liquid and begins to release its starch. When you can see the bottom of the pan as you stir, after 5 minutes or so, quickly ladle in another couple of cups of stock and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until the stock is again almost completely absorbed.

　　

Step 6

Now pour in the saffron-infused stock along with a cup or so of hot stock from the pot. Cook, stirring, until the liquid is absorbed and the saffron color has spread. Check the risotto for doneness: it should be creamy but still al dente. Incorporate more stock if necessary.

　　

Step 7

When the risotto is fully cooked, turn off the heat, drop in the butter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated. Stir in the 1/2 cup of grated cheese, and spoon into warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately, passing additional grated cheese at the table.

　　Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2009 Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.Lidia Mattichio Bastianich is the author of four previous books, three of them accompanied by nationally syndicated public television series. She is the owner of the New York City restaurant Felidia (among others), and she lectures on and demonstrates Italian cooking throughout the country. She lives on Long Island, New York.Tanya Bastianich Manuali, Lidia’s daughter, received her Ph.D. in Renaissance history from Oxford University. Since 1996 she has led food/wine/art tours. She lives with her husband and children on Long Island.