Unlike the ricotta forte of Puglia, prepared laboriously, asking that the fresh cheese be left to drain off its opaline waters and to acidify, the dry cheese to then be kneaded, worked each third or fourth day for at least two months until it takes on a burnt ivory sort of color and its perfumes come up stinging, pungent, this version is prepared in moments. Yielding a condiment less punishing in its aromas, the Calabrian ricotta forte is still of an assertive and keen savor, which when smoothed over warm, crusty bread, glorifies the richness of spiced sausages and salame presented as antipasto. A few dollops of it, thinned with drops of pasta cooking water and tossed with bucatini or spaghetti, make a fine dish. Tucked away in a crock in the refrigerator for a week or so, the vigor of ricotta forte ripens and intensifies.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 3 cups

　　3 anchovies, preserved under salt

　　3 cups whole-milk ricotta

　　1/4 cup grappa or Cognac

　　2 small, whole red chile peppers, crushed, or 1/2 to 2/3 teaspoon dried chile flakes

　　3 fat cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

　　1/3 cup capers, preserved under salt, rinsed and dried

　　

Step 1

Rinse the anchovies. Remove their heads and bones and dry lightly on absorbent paper towels.

　　

Step 2

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, whip the ricotta with the grappa to a smooth cream. Turn the ricotta out into a bowl. In a mortar with a pestle, grind the chile peppers with the garlic and the anchovies to a paste. Stir the paste into the ricotta, blending the components thoroughly before folding in the capers.

　　

Step 3

Turn the ricotta into a large terra-cotta crock or several smaller rustic sorts of vessels, covering them tightly with plastic wrap, and permitting them an overnight rest in the refrigerator to marry their good, compatible flavors and perfumes.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy