American cheesecake is to Italian cheesecake what slouching around the house in a sweatshirt and jeans is to stepping out on the town in a tailored Armani suit. When I stopped comparing Italian cheesecake to its comfy American cousin, I was finally won over. Made with ricotta cheese instead of pounds of cream cheese and sour cream, it’s lighter and leaner, and perfectly accompanied by fresh fruit compotes or colorful sauces. For best results, use whole-milk ricotta cheese. Or even better, seek out fresh ricotta from a local producer. And be sure to watch it carefully during baking, taking it out when it is just barely set.

　　

Ingredients

makes one 9-inch (23-cm) cake; 12 servings

　　1/2 cup (80 g) golden raisins

　　3 tablespoons (45 ml) Marsala or port (ruby or tawny)

　　2 pounds (1 kg) ricotta cheese

　　2/3 cup (130 g) sugar

　　1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy cream

　　5 large eggs, at room temperature

　　3/4 teaspoon aniseed

　　1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

　　1 teaspoon vanilla extract

　　Grated zest of 1 orange, preferably organic

　　Soft-Candied Citrus Peel (page 253) made with oranges, for garnish

　　

Step 1

In a small saucepan, bring the raisins and Marsala or port to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside for about 1 hour.

　　

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan.

　　

Step 3

In a large bowl, mix together the ricotta, sugar, and cream until well combined. Stir in the eggs one at a time.

　　

Step 4

Crush the aniseed in a mortar and pestle or seal them inside a sturdy plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add the crushed seeds to the ricotta mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the raisins and any unabsorbed liquid, along with the flour, vanilla, and orange zest.

　　

Step 5

Scrape the mixture into the prepared springform pan and bake the cake until it feels barely firm and the top is golden brown, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

　　

Step 6

Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the springform pan.

　　

Step 7

Cut into wedges and garnish each serving with strips of candied orange peel.

　　

Serving

Step 8

The cake is best served at room temperature. A compote of sweetened fresh peach slices or strawberries, or a drizzle of Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce (page 243) spiked with amaretto is an excellent accompaniment.

　　

Storage

Step 9

Ricotta cheesecake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

　　

Variation

Step 10

I also like serving this cake with a TANGY RHUBARB SAUCE. Wash and dry 2 stalks of rhubarb, then cut them into 1/2-inch (1.5-cm) pieces. In a small saucepan, simmer the rhubarb in 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) water over medium-low heat until tender, about 10 minutes. In a blender, purée the rhubarb along with its cooking liquid, 3 tablespoons (45 g) sugar, and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur. Taste and add another tablespoon of sugar if you wish.

　　Ready for Dessert by David Lebovitz. Copyright © 2010 by David Lebovitz. Published by Ten Speed Press. All Rights Reserved.David Lebovitz lived in San Francisco for twenty years before moving to Paris. He baked at several notable restaurants before starting his career as a cookbook author and food writer. He's the author of four highly regarded books on desserts, and has written for many major food magazines, sharing his well-tested recipes written with a soupçon of humor. His popular, award-winning blog, www.davidlebovitz.com, entertains readers from around the world with sweet and savory recipes as he tries to unravel the complexities of living in Paris.