Viet cooks prepare this chao in several ways, and I prefer the easy northern approach of sauteing seasoned chicken and adding it to the hot soup. Traditionally, a chicken would be boned, its carcass cooked with the rice to make the soup, and the boneless meat sauteed and added later on. This old-fashioned approach saves fuel costs and time, but the residue from the bones ends up suspended in the soup. I prefer to use stock, either homemade or a blend of purchased broth and water. The final sprinkle of chopped Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) and sliced scallion adds contrasting color and flavor.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 as a light lunch, or 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes

　　3/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts, cut into small bite-sized pieces

　　1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce

　　1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil

　　1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

　　8 cups Basic Rice Soup (page 67)

　　Salt

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh Vietnamese coriander or cilantro leaves

　　1 scallion, green part only, cut into thin rings

　　

Step 1

In a bowl, toss the chicken with the fish sauce and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.

　　

Step 2

In a skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or until fragrant and soft. Or, you may cook it longer until it is even a little caramelized, if you like. Add the chicken and saute for about 4 minutes, or until cooked through.

　　

Step 3

Add the chicken mixture and any juices that have accumulated in the pan to the saucepan holding the rice soup. Place over medium heat and bring almost to a boil, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Taste and add extra salt, as necessary. Ladle into individual soup bowls or a large serving bowl. Top with the Vietnamese coriander and scallion and serve immediately.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.