In autumn, Lombardy abounds in zucca—what we call “winter squash”—and the seasonal cuisine makes full use of the vegetable. Squashes of all sizes and shapes are in the market—favorite varieties like marina di chioggia, berettina piacentina, zucca tonda padana, zucca blu, and zucca delica—to be cooked in stuffings, soups, pasta sauces, and risotto. And, like many fruits and vegetables, zucca is pickled with mustard seed to make the delicious condiment called mostarda, for which Lombardy—especially Cremona—is famous. This riso will be delicious made with any of our squashes—try acorn, buttercup, delicata, hubbard, or kabocha as well as butternut. The fresh vegetables of other seasons can be used, too, following the basic technique of the recipe. Asparagus in springtime or broccoli in summer will be delicious cooked with rice.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 or more as a ¿rst course or side dish

　　2 pounds butternut squash

　　1 cup onion cut in 1-inch chunks

　　1 cup carrot cut in 1-inch chunks

　　1 cup celery cut in 1-inch chunks

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 tablespoons butter

　　1 tablespoon kosher salt

　　5 cups hot water or light stock, plus more if needed

　　2 cups Italian short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano

　　

FOR FINISHING

2 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces

　　1/2 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for passing

　　

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

A food processor; a heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover

　　

Step 1

Trim, peel, and remove seeds from the squash. Cut it into 1/2-inch cubes.

　　

Step 2

Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, and celery chunks to a fine-textured paste (pestata).

　　

Step 3

Put the olive oil and butter in the saucepan and set over medium heat. When the butter is melted, scrape in the pestata and season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cook the pestata for about 5 minutes, stirring it around the bottom of the pan, until it has dried out and just begins to stick.

　　

Step 4

Pour in the hot water or stock, and bring to a boil. Drop in the squash, then all the rice, stirring, and remaining salt. Return the liquid to the boil, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to keep the riso bubbling gently. Cook for about 14 minutes, until the rice and the squash are cooked and creamy (see box, page 41).

　　

Step 5

Turn off the heat, drop in the butter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated. Stir in the 1/2 cup of grated cheese, spoon the riso into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, passing additional grated cheese at the table.

　　Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2009 Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.Lidia Mattichio Bastianich is the author of four previous books, three of them accompanied by nationally syndicated public television series. She is the owner of the New York City restaurant Felidia (among others), and she lectures on and demonstrates Italian cooking throughout the country. She lives on Long Island, New York.Tanya Bastianich Manuali, Lidia’s daughter, received her Ph.D. in Renaissance history from Oxford University. Since 1996 she has led food/wine/art tours. She lives with her husband and children on Long Island.