You can use precooked (or canned) beans here, and the total time will be a mere twenty minutes, but if you cook dried beans with the proper spicing to begin with, the ultimate dish will be somewhat better. The traditional medium for frying beans is lard and with good reason; it’s delicious. But you can also make wonderful refried beans with a combination of cumin and well-browned onion. Other legumes you can prepare this way: red beans are standard; neither black nor white beans are as common, but they work well.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1/2 pound dried red beans, rinsed and picked over

　　Several fresh epazote sprigs, or 1 teaspoon dried, optional

　　2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

　　2 tablespoons ground cumin, or to taste

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 teaspoon minced garlic

　　1/4 cup corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil

　　1 cup chopped onion

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1/4 teaspoon cayenne, plus more if desired

　　

Step 1

If time allows, soak the beans overnight or for several hours in water to cover, then drain. (If not, proceed, but expect cooking time to be somewhat longer.) Combine with water to cover in a pot over medium-high heat. When the mixture boils, add the epazote if you’re using it, crushed garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the cumin, partially cover, and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender and most of the water has evaporated, at least an hour and probably more; add water as necessary to keep the beans covered.

　　

Step 2

When the beans are tender, add salt, pepper, and the minced garlic. Put the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring, until it is golden brown, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Add the remaining cumin and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more.Add the beans and mash with a large fork or potato masher. Continue to cook and mash, stirring, until the beans are more or less broken up (some remaining chunks are fine).

　　

Step 4

Season with salt and pepper, add the cayenne and more cumin if you like, and serve.

　　

Traditional Refried Beans

Step 5

Substitute 1/2 cup lard for the oil and reserve the onion and second tablespoon of cumin. Add the beans to the hot lard. When they are nicely mashed, stir in the onion and cumin and cook for 5 minutes more, stirring frequently. Season as directed and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.