Small skate, tender enough to fry quickly, should be used for this Tunisian dish. The wings are bought already dressed from the fishmonger.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　4 small wings of skate, weighing 2 pounds

　　4 cloves garlic, crushed in a garlic press

　　1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

　　Salt

　　About 1/2 cup olive oil

　　1 pound potatoes, peeled, boiled, and sliced

　　Pepper

　　2 tablespoons capers

　　1 or 2 lemons, cut in quarters, to serve with

　　

Step 1

Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, cutting in between the long soft bones. Rub the pieces with a mixture of garlic, cumin, salt, and 3–4 tablespoons of the olive oil.

　　

Step 2

In a large frying pan, fry the fish pieces in batches in shallow oil, giving them about 4 minutes on either side, until the flesh begins to part from the bone. Remove to a baking dish.

　　

Step 3

Sauté the potatoes slowly in the same oil, adding salt and pepper and more oil, and turning them over, until they are tender.

　　

Step 4

Add the capers towards the end. Reheat the fish in a 400°F oven, covered with foil. Serve on a bed of the sautéed potatoes accompanied by lemon wedges.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf