In restaurants, raw oysters tend to be disappointing and expensive. At home they are a slightly messy but relatively cheap treat. Skip the sweet cocktail sauce and serve them with a bottle of good hot sauce—classic and delicious.

　　

Ingredients

　　

Shucking oysters

Step 1

Fishmonger Tom Robinson (see page 54) opens his oysters bare-handed, using a pocket-knife; I prefer a sturdy table and something less sharp. Opening oysters takes a little practice and is more about cautious finesse than brute force; in fact swagger and overexertion are often what cause injuries. If an oyster is particularly stubborn, try opening it in a different spot or put it aside. Any that prove impossible can be steamed or grilled later.

　　

Step 2

Soak your oysters in cold water for a few minutes to loosen the dirt. Then scrub them thoroughly with a stiff brush and rinse them under cold running water. Fold a dry kitchen towel once or twice and place it on the edge of a table. Put an oyster on the towel with its hinge facing you and the larger, cupped half of the shell on the bottom. Fold the edge of the towel up over the far end of the oyster and place the heel of your hand firmly on top, securing the oyster to the table and protecting your hand with the towel. With the other hand, hold an oyster knife parallel to the table and slowly but firmly wiggle it into the spot on the hinge that seems to have the most potential for leverage, twisting the knife in one direction and then the other until the oyster pops open. Wipe the blade clean and remove the top shell, keeping the oyster level so the liquor stays in the bottom shell. Wipe the blade again and slide the knife under the oyster to sever the muscle that connects it to its shell. Remove any little bits of shell or dirt. Eat the oyster immediately. If opening a large quantity, set the oysters on a bed of crushed ice or rock salt to keep them level as you go. When he is opening oysters, Tom never stops to put one down; he hands them off until there are no takers and only then eats one himself.

　　Cooking in the Moment