This risotto is a special springtime treat, not only because of the delicate flavor of the ramps but also because the porcini is allowed to really be the star. I treat it like a fine truffle, shaving it with a mandoline in a shower over each bowl. The heat of the risotto softens the mushrooms ever so slightly, and the shavings add texture and a wonderful fragrance.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　3 cups chicken stock

　　2 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　1/2 pound of ramps, stalks thinly sliced and leaves chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

　　1 cup carnaroli rice

　　1/2 cup white wine

　　Kosher salt

　　1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

　　Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

　　1/4 pound small, extra-firm fresh porcini, wiped clean

　　

Step 1

Heat the stock in a saucepan and keep warm on the stove.

　　

Step 2

Heat the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the ramps and sauté until soft but not colored, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine is absorbed by the rice. Add a pinch of salt.

　　

Step 3

Add 1 cup of the chicken stock. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the stock is absorbed, 5 to 6 minutes. Add another cup of stock, stirring, until absorbed. Add the remaining 1 cup stock in stages—not all of the stock may be necessary. When finished, the rice should be toothsome but not crunchy. If necessary, continue to add liquid to achieve the desired consistency. When that liquid has been absorbed, add the cheese and stir gently. Season with salt to taste.

　　

Step 4

Divide among 4 plates and shave the porcini over each using a mandoline. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen