The Hindus paint a red dot, or bindi, on their foreheads as an ancient form of ornamentation that also indicates a focal point of meditation: the third eye, the site of the bright inner flame that burns in our mind’s eye. People living in the warmer climates of Latin America wear a bindi of another sort, a cucumber slice stuck to their forehead to keep cool on a hot day. This practice has always fascinated me. The sure knowledge that as the afternoon wore on the wearer’s sweat would salt that cucumber also made me hungry. The crisp, acidic rush of tsukemono, or Japanese pickles, brings focus and refreshment as an accompaniment to grilled fish, rice dishes, and sashimi. It can also be eaten on its own in a meditative moment.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 1 quart

　　12 medium Japanese or other Asian cucumbers

　　1/4 cup shio or fine traditional salt

　　1 (3- to 4-inch) piece konbu (giant kelp)

　　Julienned zest of 1 lemon

　　Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

　　

Step 1

Cut the tips off the cucumbers. Cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a small spoon. Slice thinly and toss with the salt in a large bowl. Set aside for 5 minutes. Then knead the cucumbers with your hands for a minute or two to draw out the water. Drain off the liquid.

　　

Step 2

Bury the konbu in the center of the cucumbers and scatter the lemon zest over the top. Put a plate that fits easily inside the bowl on top of the vegetables. Put a weight on the plate and set aside for 1 hour.

　　

Step 3

Remove the konbu. To serve, toss the cucumbers to distribute the lemon zest, and lift the pickles from the bowl with chopsticks or a fork, shaking off excess liquid. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.

　　Salted