I’ll admit to a tendency toward obsession, especially when it comes to food, as my experience with duck eggs proves. I bought my first dozen a few years ago at the Saturday farmers’ market at 14th and U Streets in Washington, D.C., and from the first time I fried one, I was pretty much hooked, buying duck eggs and only duck eggs and going through a dozen every week or two, at least while the ducks were laying. I’ve since veered back toward moderation, especially after remembering that these richer, more flavorful eggs are also higher in saturated fat and much higher in cholesterol. Still, I like to splurge every now and then, and this puffy frittata is one of my favorite ways. It also illustrates the magical properties of egg whites as a leavener; the simple process of separating whites from yolks, beating the whites to the soft-peak stage, and folding the two together results in a light-as-air texture, something between a frittata and a soufflé. Nonetheless, you can use these same ingredients in a more straightforward frittata; instead of separating the eggs, just follow the method for the Mushroom and Green Garlic Frittata (page 32). And if you can’t find duck eggs, chicken eggs work fine here, too.

　　

Ingredients

2 large duck eggs, separated

　　Kosher or sea salt

　　Freshly ground black pepper

　　1 tablespoon unsalted butter

　　2 ounces smoked salmon, cut into thin ribbons or chunks (about 1/3 cup)

　　1 tablespoon fresh chives, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

　　1 to 2 tablespoons Greek-style yogurt

　　

Step 1

Preheat the broiler with the rack set about 4 to 5 inches from the flame or element.

　　

Step 2

Using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on high speed, beat the egg whites for several minutes until they foam, thicken, and make soft peaks when you turn off the mixer and lift the beaters.

　　

Step 3

In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks with a fork to break them up, and season generously with salt and pepper. Add a third of the egg whites to the egg yolks, stirring to lighten and combine, then gently fold the remaining egg whites into the egg yolks, being careful not to overmix and deflate the whites.

　　

Step 4

Set a small ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, swirling to coat the pan and letting the butter melt and foam up. As soon as the foam starts to subside, pour in the egg mixture, tilting the pan to make sure the egg covers the bottom. Let it cook undisturbed until the bottom is just set, approximately 1 to 2 minutes.

　　

Step 5

Quickly scatter the salmon on top of the eggs and sprinkle with the chives. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and let the eggs cook until the surface has set, 1 to 2 minutes.

　　

Step 6

Transfer to a plate, top with dollops of the yogurt, and eat.

　　Reprinted with permission from Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One by Joe Yonan. Text copyright © 2011 by Joe Yonan; photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.Joe Yonan is the food and travel editor at the Washington Post, where he writes the award-winning "Cooking for One" column. Joe's work also earned the Post the 2009 and 2010 James Beard Foundation's award for best food section. He is the former travel editor at the Boston Globe. Visit www.joeyonan.com.