There are more versions of this dish than you can count. You can add cayenne if you like or a little wine or stock. Some olive oil at the end contributes freshness, and 1/2 cup or more of rice cooked with the chicken (add twice as much boiling water or stock as rice, at about the same time) makes the dish more substantial. And so on. In short, it’s one of those universal recipes, but in all forms associated with southern France. Bread is the most common accompaniment, but this saucy chicken is good over rice or other grains as well.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　4 chicken leg-thigh pieces, each cut into 2 pieces

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　2 anchovy fillets, minced, optional

　　1 large or 2 medium onions, chopped

　　1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped

　　Large pinch of saffron threads, optional

　　1 teaspoon fresh marjoram (preferred), oregano, or thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried

　　2 tablespoons drained capers

　　2 cups cored and chopped tomatoes (canned are fine), with their liquid

　　1 cup good-quality black or green olives (or a mixture), pitted

　　Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put the oil in a large deep skillet, preferably nonstick, and turn the heat to medium. A minute later, add the chicken pieces, skin side down, and brown well, seasoning with salt and pepper and adjusting the heat and rotating the pieces so they brown evenly, about 10 minutes. When they are done, transfer them to a plate.

　　

Step 2

Add the garlic and anchovies if you’re using them and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic begins to take on some color, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and the bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, about 10 minutes. Add the saffron, herb, and capers and stir, then add the tomatoes and olives. Stir, bring to a boil, and return the chicken, skin side up, to the skillet.

　　

Step 3

Cover and cook over medium-low heat—the mixture should bubble, but gently—until the chicken is done, 20 to 30 minutes. Garnish and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.