Active Time

　　1 1/4 hr

　　Total Time

　　1 3/4 hr

　　Your eyes aren't playing tricks on you: Yes, after simmering the fish with aromatics, wine, and tomatoes, we advise you to force every last bit through a food mill—heads, tails, bones, and all—for an incredibly lush soup, tasting of a beautiful union between land and sea (the food mill will strain any unwanted solids to be discarded). A garlicky rouille, exotic with a touch of crumbled saffron, further coaxes out the natural richness of the fish.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 8 (first course) servings

　　4 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), chopped

　　1 large fennel bulb, stalks discarded, reserving fronds for garnish, and bulb chopped

　　3 medium carrots, chopped

　　2 large celery ribs, chopped

　　4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

　　1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 tablespoon herbes de Provence

　　2 California or 4 Turkish bay leaves

　　1/4 teaspoon cayenne

　　1/8 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads

　　5 pounds whole whiting, perch, or cod (preferably with heads), cleaned and rinsed well

　　5 medium tomatoes, chopped (4 cups)

　　2 cups dry white wine

　　4 (3- by 1-inch) strips fresh orange zest

　　6 cups water

　　3 tablespoons tomato paste

　　1 baguette, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices

　　

Equipment:

Equipment: a food mill fitted with medium disk

　　

Accompaniment

Accompaniment: saffron rouille

　　

Step 1

Wash leeks .

　　

Step 2

Cook leeks, fennel bulb, carrots, celery, and garlic in oil with herbes de Provence, bay leaves, cayenne, saffron, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in an 8-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes.

　　

Step 3

While vegetable mixture cooks, cut fish crosswise into 2- to 3-inch lengths.

　　

Step 4

Add tomatoes, wine, and zest to vegetable mixture and bring to a boil, then boil 30 seconds. Add fish, water, and tomato paste and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until fish completely falls apart, about 30 minutes.

　　

Step 5

Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.

　　

Step 6

Arrange baguette slices in 1 layer on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown and thoroughly dried, about 20 minutes.

　　

Step 7

Force soup through food mill into a large heavy pot, discarding solids. Reheat soup over medium heat, stirring occasionally.

　　

Step 8

Mound rouille on croutons and put 1 in bottom of each soup bowl. Pour soup around croutons.

　　Cooks' note:

　　Soup, without rouille and croutons, can be made 2 days ahead and chilled, uncovered, until completely cooled, then covered. Reheat before serving.