This is more than a soup; it is a generous meal fit for a gathering, and it has everything I love about food and flavor. I learned to make it from my French “mother,” Lulu. It’s one of the longest recipes in the book, but taken in parts it is not hard to make. I think of it as several steps: first make a fish stock, then prepare the fish and shellfish; make the rouille (garlic mayonnaise flavored with pepper purée); make the soup base with vegetables and the fish stock; toast garlic croutons; and finally put it all together, cooking the fish and shellfish in the deeply flavored soup base, and serve it with rouille and croutons to pass at the table.

　　

Ingredients

8 to 10 servings

　　3 pounds fish bones and heads (gills removed), white-fleshed fish only

　　1 onion, peeled and sliced

　　1 small carrot, peeled and sliced

　　1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and sliced

　　3 medium tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped

　　1 head of garlic, cut in half horizontally

　　Olive oil, enough to cover the bottom of the pan

　　1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

　　1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds

　　1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds

　　A few sprigs of fresh herbs (such as fennel tops, wild fennel, savory, thyme, or parsley)

　　1 bay leaf

　　A pinch of saffron threads

　　2 cups dry white wine

　　1 1/2 quarts water

　　Salt

　　2 pounds assorted fish fillets (rockfish, ling cod, halibut, or sea robin, or any combination)

　　Extra-virgin olive oil, just enough to coat the fish

　　2 tablespoons chopped fennel tops, wild fennel, or parsley

　　4 garlic cloves, crushed and coarsely chopped

　　Salt

　　1 pound mussels

　　Rouille (opposite)

　　3 tablespoons olive oil

　　1 medium onion, diced fine

　　1 leek, white part only, cleaned, rinsed, and diced

　　1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and diced

　　A pinch of saffron threads

　　4 or 5 medium tomatoes (about 3/4 pound), peeled, seeded, and diced

　　8 to 10 slices country-style bread

　　Olive oil

　　1 garlic clove, peeled

　　

Step 1

To make the fish stock, rinse and clean: 3 pounds fish bones and heads (gills removed), white-fleshed fish only.

　　

Step 2

If necessary, chop the bones so they will fit in a large heavy pot. Prepare: 1 onion, peeled and sliced, 1 small carrot, peeled and sliced, 1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and sliced, 3 medium tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped, 1 head of garlic, cut in half horizontally.

　　

Step 3

Put a large heavy pot over medium-high heat and pour in: Olive oil, enough to cover the bottom of the pan.

　　

Step 4

Add the fish bones and sauté for 2 minutes and then add the prepared vegetables with: 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds, A few sprigs of fresh herbs (such as fennel tops, wild fennel, savory, thyme, or parsley), 1 bay leaf, A pinch of saffron threads.

　　

Step 5

Continue to cook for a few more minutes, until the vegetables start to soften. Pour over: 2 cups dry white wine.

　　

Step 6

Bring to a boil and cook for a couple of minutes, then add: 1 1/2 quarts water, Salt. to a simmer. Skim off the foam that rises to the surface. Cook at a simmer for 45 minutes and then strain.

　　

Step 7

Meanwhile trim away any bones from: 2 pounds assorted fish fillets (rockfish, ling cod, halibut, or sea robin, or any combination).

　　

Step 8

Add the bones to the simmering fish stock. Cut the fillets into 2-or 3-inch pieces and marinate in: Extra-virgin olive oil, just enough to coat the fish, 2 tablespoons chopped fennel tops, wild fennel, or parsley, 4 garlic cloves, crushed and coarsely chopped, Salt.

　　

Step 9

Scrub and remove the beards from: 1 pound mussels.

　　

Step 10

Prepare: Rouille (opposite).

　　

Step 11

For the soup base, heat a heavy soup pot over medium heat and pour in: 3 tablespoons olive oil.

　　

Step 12

When hot, add: 1 medium onion, diced fine.

　　

Step 13

Cook for 5 minutes and add: 1 leek, white part only, cleaned, rinsed, and diced, 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and diced, A pinch of saffron threads.

　　

Step 14

Cook, stirring now and then, until soft, about 7 minutes; do not brown. Add: Salt, 4 or 5 medium tomatoes (about 3/4 pound), peeled, seeded, and diced.

　　

Step 15

Cook for another 3 or 4 minutes. Pour in the strained fish stock and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Taste for salt and adjust. Th is can be done ahead of time, and in fact, it tastes better if this soup base of stock and vegetables has a chance to sit for a while before you add the fish.

　　

Step 16

Prepare the croutons. Brush: 8 to 10 slices country-style bread with Olive oil.

　　

Step 17

Lay the oiled bread on a baking sheet and toast in a 375°F oven for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Rub the croutons with: 1 garlic clove, peeled.

　　

Step 18

When ready to finish and serve the soup, bring the soup base to a simmer and add the fish. Cook for 3 minutes, then add the mussels. Cook at a simmer until the shellfish open their shells. Taste the soup for salt and adjust as necessary. Serve with the croutons and rouille to pass at the table.

　　

Variations

Step 19

Add 3/4 pound shrimp, unpeeled or peeled, with the mussels. (If you peel the shrimp first, add the peels to the simmering stock.)

　　

Step 20

Use small clams in combination with the mussels.

　　The Art of Simple Food