The fragrant, filling, dripping-with-oil muffuletta is New Orleans’s beloved version of a hero or hoagie. The sandwich originated at Central Grocery in 1906, and people still line up out the door to buy them there. In a traditional muffuletta, a sesame seed-speckled round loaf of crusty Italian bread is stuffed with slices of provolone, salami, mortadella, and a pungent olive salad (which ranks alongside hot sauce and beignet mix as the best souvenirs from the Quarter). A muffuletta is a cousin to one of the great street foods of Nice, the niçoise-salad-on-a-roll known as pan bagnat. The sandwich, which literally translates as “bathed bread,” is so named because the crusty bread is “bathed” in the rich oils from olives and tuna. With this preparation in mind, I created a tuna-driven version of the classic New Orleans sandwich. I think it’s a happy combination.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 sandwiches

　　

Prosciutto-Wrapped Tuna

1 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted and crushed

　　1 teaspoon lemon zest

　　1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

　　1 garlic clove, minced

　　3 tablespoons olive oil

　　1 pound fresh tuna loin, cut into 4 pieces approximately 1/2 inch thick

　　Sea salt

　　4 long, thin slices prosciutto (about 1 ounce each)

　　

Olive Salad

1 cup pitted kalamata olives, slivered lengthwise

　　1/2 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives

　　1 cup chopped mixed pickled Italian vegetables (giardiniera)

　　8 pepperoncini, stemmed and chopped

　　2 tablespoons capers

　　2 teaspoons minced garlic

　　2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

　　1/2 cup chopped celery hearts

　　2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

　　1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　

To Assemble

6 ounces provolone cheese, thinly sliced

　　4 ciabatta rolls, or 1 loaf ciabatta or Italian seeded round, quartered

　　4 fillets of seared Prosciutto-wrapped Tuna

　　1 to 1 1/2 cups olive salad

　　1 bunch arugula, cleaned and dried (about 2 cups)

　　

Prosciutto-Wrapped Tuna

Step 1

Using a small bowl, mix the fennel seeds, lemon zest, red pepper, garlic, and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Brush the mixture onto both sides of the tuna. Season lightly with salt and wrap each piece of tuna with 1 piece of prosciutto. Refrigerate for at least 1/2 hour or up to 8 hours. When you’re ready to assemble the sandwiches, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over high heat. Sear the fillets about 1 minute on each side (just enough to crisp the prosciutto). Ideally, the tuna should still be reddish pink in the middle. You can also grill the tuna 2–3 minutes on each side if you prefer.

　　

Olive Salad

Step 2

Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Olive salad keeps beautifully—it will last in the refrigerator for up to three weeks.

　　

To Assemble

Step 3

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lay equal portions of the provolone on one half of each roll. Top with the seared tuna, olive salad, and arugula, and place the other half of bread on top. Warm in the oven if you like, until the cheese starts to melt. (If warming, add arugula after the sandwich comes out of the oven.)

　　

Olive Salad

Step 4

If you buy it, you’ll need about 1 1/2 cups prepared olive salad (see Sources, p. 384). Or you can make your own as follows.

　　

note

Step 5

Leftover olive salad makes a great instant Italian salad with romaine, arugula, cheese, and tomatoes. It’s also wonderful with crabmeat, grilled eggplant, and artichokes. I always have some in my fridge and use it to fancy up a simple salami sandwich for my husband’s lunch box. Stock up at Central Grocery on your next trip to New Orleans!

　　From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf.Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook.Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.