Season: November to March. Preserved lemons have a strong association with Middle Eastern and North African cuisines, and their unique zesty, salty yet mellow flavor permeates many of the traditional meat and couscous dishes of those regions. Strips of preserved lemon can also be added to salads, soups, and dressings, or mixed with olives and other appetizers. They are exceptionally easy to prepare, and I like to make them around the turn of the year when the new season’s lemons from Spain and Italy are in the shops.

　　

Ingredients

makes two 12-ounce jars

　　2 1/4 pounds small, ripe, unwaxed lemons

　　1/2 cup good-quality sea salt

　　1 teaspoon black or pink peppercorns

　　3 to 4 bay leaves

　　1 teaspoon coriander seeds (optional)

　　

Step 1

Wash the lemons in cold water and pat them dry. Set 4 of them aside–these will be squeezed and their juice poured over the salted lemons.

　　

Step 2

Using a sharp knife, partially quarter the remaining lemons lengthwise by making two deep cuts right through the fruit, keeping them intact at one end. Rub a good teaspoonful of salt into the cut surfaces of each lemon. Pack the fruit chock-a-block into sterilized, wide-necked jars (see p. 21), sprinkling in the remaining salt, and the peppercorns, bay leaves, and coriander seeds (if using) as you go.

　　

Step 3

Squeeze the juice from the reserved lemons and pour over the salted lemons. They must be completely covered. You can top up the jars with a little water if necessary. Seal with a vinegar-proof lid (see p. 22). Leave for at least 1 month to allow the lemon rinds to soften before opening.

　　

Step 4

To use, remove a lemon from the jar and rinse it well. Scoop out and discard the flesh (or purée it for use in dressings) and use the salted rind whole, chopped, or sliced. Make sure the lemons in the jar remain covered with liquid and, once opened, keep the jar in the fridge. Use within 1 year.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.