Almost every region of northern Italy has some version of potato-stuffed ravioli. The potato is a constant, whereas the flavoring may change, from onion to chard to raisins to pine nuts. You can come up with some of your favorites. But in my house everybody loves potato-and-bacon ravioli, even fussy kids. You can do all the cooking ahead of time if you want—just mash up the filling while it’s still warm, then refrigerate.

　　

Ingredients

makes 2 cups of filling, for 20 to 24 ravioli

　　3/4 pound Yukon Gold potatoes (3 small potatoes are best)

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　About 5 ounces bacon, cut crosswise in 1/4-inch strips (3/4 cup)

　　2 medium leeks, washed, drained, and finely chopped (1 1/2 cups)

　　1/8 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

　　Freshly ground black pepper to taste

　　1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano for the filling

　　

For finishing and serving

1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano

　　

Preparing the Filling

Step 1

Cook the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of unsalted water to cover at a steady boil for 20 minutes or longer, until just cooked through. Don’t let them crack or get mushy on the outside. Let them cool briefly, then peel and slice them into rounds, 1/4 inch thick.

　　

Step 2

Heat the oil and the bacon pieces in a skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 3 or 4 minutes, until the bacon is sizzling and has rendered much of its fat. Stir in the leeks and cook another 3 minutes or so, until they’re wilted and sizzling. Spread the potato slices in the pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the bacon and leeks.

　　

Step 3

Cook for 8 minutes or more over medium-high heat, breaking up the potatoes into chunks. Spread and press the filling flat in the pan, and let caramelize for a couple of minutes. Turn the pieces, press, and fry; then repeat. When the filling is thoroughly cooked and has started to color, scrape it into a mixing bowl. Cool briefly, then crush the potatoes some more with a fork (I like to have little chunks left); add salt, pepper, and cheese to the filling to taste.

　　

Filling the Ravioli

Step 4

Roll dough strips following the master method, page 189. For each raviolo, scoop up a heaping tablespoon of potato filling, shape it round, and set in place. Cover and cut ravioli.

　　

Finishing the Ravioli

Step 5

Cook and sauce ravioli as on page 192. Remove pan from heat, sprinkle the freshly grated cheese over, and serve.

　　

Good Sauces for This. . .

Step 6

Butter and Fresh Sage Sauce (page 118) is the best, but Fresh Tomato Sauce (page 183) would go well too.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.