There are two kinds of people: those who love potato chips and those who don’t exist. Making your own chips means a fresh potato, freshly fried in the freshest oil. It also means you can choose your own salt. The freshly fried potato chip is an object worthy of serious contemplation, a thing of wonder, a crispy symphony of fat and starch and salt. When the diamondlike glitter of fleur de sel throws its multifaceted might behind it, hold on to the roof.

　　

Ingredients

serves 2

　　2 large russet potatoes (about 12 ounces each), wiped clean with a damp towel

　　1 quart canola oil

　　3 two-finger pinches fleur de sel de Guérande

　　

Step 1

Slice the potatoes into paper-thin slices using a mandoline or a very sharp knife. As soon as the potatoes are sliced, put them in a bowl of ice water.

　　

Step 2

Heat the oil to 325°F in an electric deep-fryer or a heavy deep saucepan. If using a saucepan, you will need a deep-fat fry thermometer to make sure that the oil stays at a constant temperature.

　　

Step 3

Lift the potatoes from the water and arrange them in a single layer on a clean dish towel. Wrap the towel around the potatoes and wring out as much water from the potatoes as you can without crushing the slices. If the potatoes are still damp after the towel will absorb no more, transfer to another towel and wring again.

　　

Step 4

Fry the potatoes in two batches; your goal is to make sure all the potato surfaces are in contact with the hot oil, so crowding is a no-no. Stir the slices as needed to keep them separate and fry until tender enough to become floppy, but not brown, about 4 minutes. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and put on a wire rack set on a sheet pan to catch the drips. Let cool.

　　

Step 5

Once all the potatoes are fried and cooled, heat the oil to 375°F. Fry the once-fried potatoes in three batches until browned and crisp, 30 to 45 seconds per batch. Transfer onto a double layer of paper towels to drain. Immediately sprinkle the chips with the salt and serve warm. I like shaking the chips with salt in a paper bag to coat them better and to remove additional oil.

　　

Chip Note

Step 6

Universal as the love of chips may be, not everyone agrees on what makes the perfect cut for a chip. Different chips can be turned to different purposes. Crinkle-cut chips prove best (or at least less frustrating) for dipping in clam dip. Thicker chips might do the job with steak tartare or Niçoise salad. Thinner chips may be best for light snacking with a sip of Highland single-malt whisky before or after dinner.

　　Salted