One of the most common curry puff fillings features well-seasoned potatoes and a little meat. I like to use ground lamb because it pairs terrifically with the bold spice blend that Malay cooks often identify as meat curry powder. I’ve broken it down for you here, but feel free to substitute 2 1/4 teaspoons of your favorite curry powder (if salt is already in the powder, add salt to taste only after the filling is done). For a vegetarian rendition, omit the meat and increase the potato to 3/4 cup, adding extra water as needed during cooking.

　　

Ingredients

makes 3/4 cup

　　1 1/2 teaspoons coriander seed

　　1/2 teaspoon cumin seed

　　1/4 teaspoon fennel seed

　　4 black peppercorns

　　1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne

　　1/8 teaspoon ground turmeric

　　1 pinch of ground cloves

　　1 pinch of ground cinnamon

　　2 tablespoons chopped shallot

　　2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

　　1 clove garlic, chopped

　　1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon water

　　1 tablespoon canola oil

　　2 ounces ground lamb or other ground meat, coarsely chopped to loosen

　　1/2 cup diced Yukon Gold potato

　　Generous 1/4 teaspoon salt

　　Brown sugar (optional)

　　

Step 1

Toast the coriander seed, cumin seed, fennel seed, and peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Use a clean, dry coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to pulverize. Transfer to an electric mini-chopper and add cayenne, turmeric, cloves, cinnamon, shallot, ginger, garlic, and 1 teaspoon water. Process to a paste, scraping down the sides occasionally. (If you’ve used a mortar and pestle, add all the ingredients, except the water, and pound into a paste. Add the water when done.) Transfer to a small bowl and set aside near the stove.

　　

Step 2

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the spice paste and gently cook, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes, until it has darkened and become richly fragrant. Add the lamb and use a wooden spoon or spatula to stir and mash the meat into small pieces. Cook for 30 to 60 seconds, until most of the meat no longer looks raw. Add the potato, stir, and then add the 1/4 cup water and salt. Cover, lower the heat slightly, and cook for 5 minutes, or until the potato is tender and there is little liquid remaining. Remove from the heat and use the spoon or spatula to mash half of the potato and make the mixture cohere a bit. Taste and add extra salt, if needed. Mix in a pinch or two of brown sugar if the filling is too spicy. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside to cool completely before using. The filling can be prepared up to 2 days in advance, covered in plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Return it to room temperature before using.

　　Reprinted with permission from Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More © 2009 by Andrea Nguyen, Ten Speed Press.Buy the full book from Amazon or from Bookshop.