My first real chef position was at Alloro, a small Italian restaurant in Boston’s North End. In this all-Italian neighborhood, the owner was not Italian, but rather a Portuguese guy named Armando. Some cultures care more about food than others, and, like the Italians, the Portuguese are definitely devoted to their cuisine. Armando loved to tell me about the Old Country and the dishes his mother made for him when he was growing up. This dish is traditionally made with pork loin, but when I tried it, the loin was dry and didn’t seem to marry well with the flavors of the clams. So I decided to try it with pork confit, which would get crispy on the outside but stay meltingly tender on the inside. To give more pork flavor to the broth, I added chorizo and came up with my own version of pork (and pork!) and clams. In honor of Armando, I always make my pork and clams with fried potatoes. If he had his way, everything would come with fried potatoes.

　　

Ingredients

2 tablespoons pork fat (from the confit)

　　1 1/4 pounds pork confit (see pages 213–214), cut into 1-inch cubes

　　Fried potatoes (recipe follows)

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　3/4 pound fresh Mexican chorizo, casings removed

　　1/2 cup sliced shallots

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　3 pounds Manila clams, well scrubbed

　　Roasted tomatoes (recipe follows)

　　1 1/2 cups vermouth

　　1 cup chicken stock

　　4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

　　2 tablespoons minced garlic

　　1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Fried Potatoes

1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

　　1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 head garlic, cut in half horizontally and smashed

　　2 bay leaves

　　6 sprigs thyme, plus 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Roasted Tomatoes

6 Roma or other roasting tomatoes

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　2 teaspoons thyme leaves

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 200°F.

　　

Step 2

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in the pork fat and wait 1 minute. Taste a piece of the pork confit to see if it needs more seasoning. Season with salt and pepper, if necessary. Place the pork confit in the pan, being careful not to crowd it. (You may need to do this in two pans or two batches.) Sear the pork 4 to 5 minutes on the first side. When the first side is nicely caramelized, turn the pork cubes over, and brown them on all sides. Stir in the fried potatoes, heat them through, and coat them well with the pork fat. Transfer the pan to the oven to keep it warm.

　　

Step 3

Heat a Dutch oven over high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in the olive oil and wait 1 minute. Crumble the chorizo into the pan, and sauté about 4 minutes, until the sausage is crisped on one side but not fully cooked. Add the shallots and thyme, stirring to coat them with the chorizo oil. Add the clams and the roasted tomatoes, stirring for about 2 minutes to combine all the ingredients and coat the clams. Pour in the vermouth and cover the pan. Let the clams steam a few minutes, until they open. Remove the lid and add the stock. Discard any unopened clams. Bring to a simmer, stirring well to combine the flavors, and swirl in the butter. Taste for seasoning. Spoon the clams and chorizo into a large, warm, shallow bowl.

　　

Step 4

Meanwhile, take the pork out of the oven and return it to the stove, over medium heat. Add the garlic and stir well, so that it coats the meat and potatoes. After a minute or two, when the garlic is translucent and just starting to color, stir in the parsley. Arrange the pork and potatoes over the clams and chorizo.

　　

Step 5

Serve with a large serving spoon and lots of crusty bread. If you are feeling over the top, a bowl of aïoli would really gild the lily (see page 148).

　　

Fried Potatoes

Step 6

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

　　

Step 7

Place the potatoes in a roasting pan, and toss well with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and 1 heaping teaspoon salt. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, and roast the potatoes about 50 minutes, until they’re tender. (The time will really depend on size, age, and variety of potatoes.) When the potatoes have cooled, peel them, discard the bay leaves and thyme, and crumble the potatoes into chunky pieces with your hands.

　　

Step 8

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (To get the potatoes nicely browned and crisp, don’t overcrowd them. You may have to use two pans or brown them in batches.) Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and wait 1 more minute. Add the crumbled potatoes, and season with the thyme leaves, salt, and pepper. Sauté the potatoes until they are crispy on one side. (Don’t try to move them or turn them if they are stuck to the pan; they will eventually release themselves, just be patient.) After about 8 minutes, when they’ve browned nicely on the first side, stir them to let them color on all sides. Serve immediately, or set aside on a baking sheet.

　　

Roasted Tomatoes

Step 9

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

　　

Step 10

Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise, toss them with the olive oil, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Place the tomatoes, cut side down, on a baking sheet, and roast in the oven 30 to 40 minutes, until their skins blister and shrivel. When the tomatoes have cooled, pull off their skins and crush them gently with your hands.

　　

Note

Step 11

This is one of the more involved recipes in this book, but if you plan ahead and prep well, it’s actually simple the evening of the dinner. Confit the pork a day or two in advance (remember, it will need to sit in the brine for 2 days before that!). Roast the tomatoes and potatoes in the morning, and then, closer to dinnertime, fry the potatoes and set them aside. The sautéing of the pork and steaming of the clams should be done at the last minute.

　　Cooks' Note

　　This is one of the more involved recipes in this book, but if you plan ahead and prep well, it’s actually simple the evening of the dinner. Confit the pork a day or two in advance (remember, it will need to sit in the brine for 2 days before that!). Roast

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)