Pigs in a blanket was a dish my mother made when it was time for a-something-special for dinner. Customarily, the pigs are sausages and the blankets are biscuit pastry of some sort, sometimes with a band of bacon between the two. My mother favored swathing the sausages in bacon only and cooking the bundles in the oven per the usual method. I was always intrigued to watch the care she took to turn them frequently, making sure they browned and cooked evenly all around. Later in life, I created a more sophisticated rendition: the blankets became chicken scaloppine, the pigs transmogrified to a homemade sausage, and red wine entered the ingredient list—still plenty easy, still plenty special. Pork and chestnut sausage makes the dish quite elegant, but a humbler sausage, such as Toulouse, sweet Italian, or American breakfast sausage is also suitable. The rolls can also be cooled, then sliced and used as part of a charcuterie appetizer plate.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　6 small boneless chicken breast halves with skin

　　1 1/2 pounds Pork and Chestnut Sausage (page 14)

　　4 tablespoons butter

　　1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

　　3 cups red wine

　　8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

　　2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon

　　

Step 1

One at a time, place each chicken breast between 2 sheets of waxed paper or plastic wrap. With a mallet or other pounding device, such as the flat side of a hammer or the bottom of a wine bottle, pound the chicken breast until 1/4 inch thick or slightly thinner.

　　

Step 2

Discard the waxed paper. Spread about one-sixth of the sausage lengthwise along the center of each scaloppine. Roll up to enclose the sausage and secure closed with toothpicks or kitchen string.

　　

Step 3

In a sauté pan large enough to hold the chicken rolls without crowding, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the rolls, sprinkle them with the black pepper, and sauté, turning frequently, until lightly golden all around, 10 to 12 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Add the wine, garlic, and tarragon and stir to mix. Bring just to a boil and decrease the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered, basting frequently, until the juices are no longer pink when a roll is pierced, about 15 minutes. Transfer the rolls to a platter and set aside in a warm place.

　　

Step 5

Reduce the liquid remaining in the pan over high heat until bubbles break from the bottom rather than only across the surface, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour the sauce over the rolls and serve right away.

　　Sausage