Active Time

　　50 min

　　Total Time

　　1 1D2 hr

　　These are the most elegant fried potatoes in the world. Don't expect the crunchy snap of a french fry but, instead, a soft, light crispness concealing an ethereally fluffy interior. There are various stories as to who or what "Lorette" is — but the number of French potato recipes named in honor of people and places illustrates how beloved and nuanced each dish is.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 6 to 8 servings

　　

For duchesse potatoes

1 lb medium boiling potatoes

　　1 tablespoon unsalted butter

　　1 whole large egg

　　1 large egg yolk

　　1 1/4 teaspoons salt

　　1/8 teaspoon black pepper

　　

For pâte à choux

1/2 cup water

　　1 tablespoon unsalted butter

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1/8 teaspoon black pepper

　　1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

　　1/2 cup all-purpose flour

　　2 large eggs

　　

For frying

About 4 cups vegetable oil

　　

Special Equipment

a potato ricer; a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch star tip; a deep-fat thermometer

　　

Make duchesse potatoes:

Step 1

Peel potatoes and cut into 1-inch pieces. Cover potatoes with cold salted water by 1 inch in a 2-quart pot, then simmer, uncovered, until tender, about 15 minutes.

　　

Step 2

Drain potatoes in a colander and return to pot. Dry potatoes by shaking pot over low heat until all moisture is evaporated and a film begins to appear on bottom of pot, about 2 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Force potatoes through ricer into a bowl. Add butter, whole egg and yolk, salt, and pepper and stir with a wooden spoon until very smooth. Keep potato mixture warm, covered.

　　

Make pâte à choux:

Step 4

Bring water, butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to a boil in a 1-quart heavy saucepan over high heat, then reduce heat to moderate.

　　

Step 5

Add flour all at once and stir briskly with a wooden spoon until mixture pulls away from side of pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly, about 3 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, stirring well after each addition. Add potato mixture and stir until combined well. Transfer mixture to pastry bag.

　　

Form and fry potatoes:

Step 6

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 200°F.

　　

Step 7

Heat 2 inches oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until thermometer registers 370°F.

　　

Step 8

Resting metal tip of pastry bag on edge of pot, pipe 8 (2-inch) lengths of potato mixture directly into oil (use caution when piping into hot oil), using a small knife or kitchen shears to cut off each length of dough at tip of bag. Fry potatoes, turning over once with a slotted spoon, until crisp, golden, and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly. Fry remaining potato mixture in batches in same manner.

　　

Step 9

Transfer potatoes as fried and drained to a metal rack set in a large shallow baking pan in oven to keep them crisp and warm until ready to serve.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　· Potato batter can be made, but not formed or fried, 1 day ahead and chilled in pastry bag, with tip covered. · Potatoes can be fried 2 hours ahead and kept at room temperature, on rack in baking pan and loosely covered with paper towels. Remove paper towels and reheat in a 400°F oven until heated through and slightly crisp, about 5 minutes.